From: "Kerry Tumleson" 
To: scottythefiddler{at}cogeco.ca
Cc: atm{at}shore.net
Reply-To: "Kerry Tumleson" 


Now that I recall, the first mirror that polished well I used a lap with a
coating of beeswax.  I didn't do it this time because I ran out of beeswax.
I wonder if I'm not making my lap too hard especially given that my
basement is generally cool.  I do use a drop of hand soap in my rouge mix. 
First, I think I might switch to CeO instead of rouge.  I believe I have
some lying around somewhere.  If that doesn't seem to help, I'll make a
softer lap. Have you used beeswax before?  I just used in once because the
book I was referencing recommended it.  I'm not opposed to using it if it
helps.

Thanks for your advice.  Hopefully, I'll be able to try out the CeO today.
I'll do 30 minutes of polishing with it to see if it makes a difference.






>From: "scottythefiddler" 
>To: "Kerry Tumleson" 
>Subject: Re: ATM Polish 6" mirror problems
>Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2003 11:32:29 -0400
>
>Sounds like it might be a problem with sleeks (very fine scratches only
>visible when you hold the mirror to the light with the right orientation).
>One solution is a softer lap.   It isn't as common with a hard glass such
>as
>pyrex, occuring more often on plate glass, or BVC.
>Also CeO isn't as like to produce them as is rouge.  If you are using
>rouge,
>you might try a drop of dish detergent mixed in with it.
>Some people have success by mixing a small amount of wax with the pitch
>when
>the lap is made.  Texereau suggests coating the pitch squares with pitch.
>I
>have tried that, but wound up with a terrible case of dog biscuit.
>Apparently there is a 'trick' to it.
>
>One interesting thing about sleeks is that they can be gotten rid of very
>quickly.   Do a wet by hand, with the mirror on bottom.  As the wet dries
>out, continue until you can barely move the lap.  You will need some cleats
>around the mirror to stop it from sliding around.  The sleeks can be
>eliminated with a half minute of this type of hard polishing.  Bear in
>mind,
>that this type of polishing leaves a bumpy surface, which can be corrected
>with further normal polishing.
>
>Hope this helps,
>sd
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kerry Tumleson" 
>To: 
>Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2003 10:22 AM
>Subject: ATM Polish 6" mirror problems
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm in the process of polishing a 6" F5 mirror with a home built
>polishing
> > machine and a full size channeled tool.  The rotation speed is approx.
>20
> > turns per minute and the back and forth motion of the arm is about 60
>per
> > minute.  The pitch I'm using is labelled as optical pitch.  I can't give
>you
> > anymore information regarding the pitch since I got it from a guy who
>got
>it
> > from a guy who passed away.  I can indent the pitch with my fingernail
>after
> > about 10-15 seconds of pressure.  I work in a basement that has a
>constant
> > cool temperature.  I alternate between TOT AND MOT.  I vary my strokes
> > between 1/4 inch to 1 inch overhang.  I hot and cold press frequently. I
> > believe the lap is making good contact with the mirror.
> >
> > My problem is that while the mirror's surface looks like it is polished
>the
> > magnify glass in the sun test shows it is not.  It appears the surface
>is
> > cloudy with a number of micro scratches consistent across the surface.
>I've
> > already polished the mirror for several hours and the surface condition
>does
> > not appear to be improving.  I'm at a lost on what could be causing
>this.
> > The only thing I could think of causing this is perhaps the
"hard" water
>in
> > my area contains some minerals that are scratching the surface.  Though,
>I
> > have polished another mirror using the same water and it turned out
>okay.
> > I'm at a lost on what is going on.  Does anyone have any ideals?  This
>is
> > the second lap I've made in hopes of addressing this problem but it
>doesn't
> > seem to be helping.
> >
> >                                  Thank you,
> >
> >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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>


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