RW> I found a cut-a-way view of the 45RFE here:
RW> 
RW> http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/545RFE.html
RW> 
RW> Looks to me like the connector is behind where the valve body would be,
RW> just like it is in a 700R4/4L60E GM trans. What was very interesting to
RW> note was that a dual internal filter system (one which was a primary
RW> filter for transmission sump, the other for the fluid cooler return
RW> system) is present. Plus, I can see what looks like an external filter up
RW> front. Changing all three filters and all of the fluid you can get out of
RW> the trans might be something to consider before you have it rebuilt.

Yes, if you are laying on your back under the trans and pull out the value
body, it would be sitting on the top right.  The connector is on the
driver's side.  

I noticed the double filter setup.  I'm sure they aren't clean after that
mixing of fluid, but I have no shifting problems at all.  Just the P0740
(related to torque converter) error when cruising over 50mph.

RW> With 155k miles on it, you might be right. If you plan on keeping it for
RW> another 100k...

It doesn't get driven that much anymore, but we have no intention of
selling it. There are things you just can't do without having a truck of
some sort.

At this point, I just want to get the power steering pump and CV axle
repair completed to get it back on the road.  The trans isn't causing a
major problem at this point in time.

RW> Plastic! I've seen plastic resevoirs on Jeep (and now GM) cooling
RW> systems,
RW> but never plastic on much else that contains essential fluids to keep a
RW> vehicle on the road.

Yes, and a plastic part that is VERY difficult to locate.  Seems the hemi
version have what appears to be a metal one.  

I just called tonight to check on my AutoZone order.  Seems the parts won't
arrive until mid-next week - since both the CV axle and power steering pump
were special order.  They are still waiting for the pump to arrive in their
warehouse.  

The pump is a rebuilt original, complete with reservoir and pully.  It
should be a plug-in-play install (famous last words).  Everything from the
lines to the pump will be totally new.  

I will also replace the serpentine belt while I'm at it.

The CV axle I ordered is new - which was also special order.

RW> Put the vehicle and the heater in the garage the night before ... it's
RW> easier to work on room-temperature cars than ice cold cars.

Not a bad idea.  I have the area cleared out, so will pull it in there next
Friday evening unless everything arrives this week.  I have a portable
ceramic heater that works great in there.  I have been in this situation
before.  :)

RW> I think the procedure is a little more involved than just removing the
RW> wheel beering. You'll probably have to remove the lower control arm too
RW> or at least lower it by removing the lower ball joint.

My plan is to remove the caliper, rotor, and hub.  Once the hub is out - it
will go in without an issue.  Some people opt to remove the lower ball
joint instead of the wheel bearing.  

Alldata says to remove the wheel bearing - and that is actually what I am
more comfortable doing.  Never done anything with ball joints.  Having air
tools this time will make this job 100% easier.  No more jumping up and
down on a breaker bar.  :)

- Mark

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