From: "Russell Jocoy" 
To: JBHillman{at}ev1.net, atm{at}shore.net
Reply-To: "Russell Jocoy" 


>From: "Jerry B. Hillman" 
>Reply-To: "Jerry B. Hillman" 
>To: 
>Subject: ATM broken glass
>Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 20:59:19 -0500
>
>
>Hi all,
>Now that I have wreaked this piece of glass I guess I buy a diamond blade
>for my saw and try to salvage enough from the pieces to make a secondary.
>How do I prevent the water for cooling from destroying my circular saw, or
>do I need a special saw for this also? And how do I get the water where I
>want it?
>Can anyone clue me into the technique of interference testing using modern
>techniques. I tried Texereau's method and didn't see anything. No fringes,
>nothin. But then I don't have either a mercury lamp or a neon glow tube.
>What should I be using?
>I am a little depressed right now about this.
>Clear skies, Jerry
>
>BTW - Cutting thick glass isn't the same as cutting normal window plate
>glass.
>
>
>

("atm{at}shore.net")

   Jerry,

  You can buy diamond blades at the depot or lowes. I suggest buying 4"
diameter instead of 7" , the
4" diameter blade doesn't flex as much.  If your circular saw is
double insulated with a plastic
housing you should be ok. I used an old Black & Decker that was all
plastic except for the table.
      To feed water I rigged an oxygen hose line( small thin clear hose)
into my garden hose with vinyl
tape. Make sure it is long enough so you don't get  puddles at your feet.
To connect to the saw I
screwd a wire on the top with a loop for the small hose. Then I bent the
wire to aim the hose at the
blade where it will contact the glass. The hose was taped to the cord to
keep it out of the way. When
water is applied you need enough pressure that the spinning blade doesn't
blow it off contact but
not so much as to spray all over the place.
       Before cutting any glass you must,  I repeat, must use a respirator.
If you don't own one , buy one.
Don't use these little dust masks they a insufficient for this material.
Obviously you need eye protection
that covers the side also.  It is up to you but I also wear the disposable
painters overalls not to contaminate my clothing, if not make sure you wash
them after cutting.
       All cutting should be outdoors in an area away from people, animals,
and any intake vents etc.
Use a sturdy table or barrel. Get a piece of scrap thick carpet and soak it
with water (it will get wet anyway
but it helps stop the glass from moving while cutting)  To mark a line on
the glass I used a carbide
scriber. I also used the scriber in a beam compass to score circles. If the
glass isn't scored it will wash
off while cutting, even permanent markers.
    When you finally do get down to cutting make sure that the blade is
adjusted only about an 1/8" to 1/4" deeper that the thickness of
the glass. When you start cutting check your water flow with the saw on
to make sure water will contact blade and glass. Now the tense part when
you finally cut into the
plate glass, just start slow and "feel" the resistance after a
while you will know  how much to push
the saw. Follow your scribed line but don't bind the blade, if it runs off
a bit don't worry  .
      To round out squares scribe the circle you want and start cutting
corners off till you get almost round. Your 16.5 was done exactly this way.
 You will see how much work it really is but once you get going
its like cutting dense wood and remember go slow when you first enter the
glass , I cracked a large
piece by entering the cut too fast .
                                                           Russ Jocoy
("atm{at}shore.net")

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