08 Apr 12 20:40, Mark Hofmann wrote to Roy Witt:



 RW>> Pink is a South Texas special. Because of the very high temps around
 RW>> here,
 RW>> all summer long, it supposedly cools better than orange or green.
 RW>>
 RW>> AFAIK, Yellow is a Ford factory antifreeze...

 MH> Around here, I have only seen the Yellow and Green.  I guess there
 MH> also a few people that still get the red Dexcool.

The Dexcool in my Z28 was orange...hmmm, could be that it was more water
than Dexcool.

 RW>> Tell him I have a factory sealed gallon of Dexcool I'll sell him,
 RW>> cheap.

 MH> I'm sure he woudn't be interested.

Neither am I, but yesterday I noticed that gallon of Dexcool while doing
some work in the garage.

 MH> He told me when he bought the car, the first thing he did was drain
 MH> out the Dexcool and put the yellow stuff in. I have seen Dexcool get
 MH> all gummy in some systems, too.

I've never had a problem with it and the Z28 has never given me anything
to worry about in the cooling department. Early on, I replaced the 195
degree thermostat with a 180 and that was the only thing I've done to it
in the cooling department up until the coolant flush and change.

 RW>> Crankcases are pressurized with compressed air/fuel mixture blowing
 RW>> by worn or sloppy piston rings. This is inevitable in internal
 RW>> combustion engines. This is why a PCV 'positive crankcase (vent)
 RW>> valve' was invented. Before PCV came into vogue, there was the 'road
 RW>> draft tube' venting blowby and oil to the underside of you car, the
 RW>> road and atmosphere. Ford's flathead V8s and Y-block V8s were famous
 RW>> - For Oiling Road Dirt - in the day of road draft tubes. All other
 RW>> cars did this too, but none of them lended a name to it better than
 RW>> FORD.

 MH> What about value covers?  My old Malibu used to leak some oil there
 MH> onto the exhaust manifold.

Chevys have been famous for that. The old cork type of gasket would shrink
with age and the 4 screws would come loose, allowing oil to seep under the
cover gasket. The rubber replacement gaskets were even worse, slipping out
from under the cover when they got a dose of oil. I tend to stick with the
old school cork gasket, glue it to the cover and let it set on flat
surface over-night with a weight on top. Then install without any glue on
the head side and tighten the cover screws down as evenly as possible,
starting with the bottom 2 and then the top 2 screws. 87 an newer I use
the same procedure, but begin tightening the 2 inner nuts and follow up
with the 2 outer nuts when installing.

 MH>   Not much, but it was enough to make a mess.

My 55 Chevy had a 30-30 Duntov cam in it. Adjusting the valves (.03
intake and .03 exhaust} with the engine running and the covers off allowed
the oil to pump over the fenders. I found a set of rocker clips (still
have them today) that covered the oil hole in the rocker which kept the
oil in the engine, until it flooded the head and overflowed onto the
exhaust. I learned to do only one bank at a time, shut it down, clean it
up and re-install that cover before tackling the other bank of cyl.

 RW>> Again, a blowby problem will force oil out of the rear seal.

 MH> I have heard that if a PCV value gets really clogged it can cause
 MH> that compression to get too high and blow some gaskets.

That it will. Rather than service a PCV, I just replace them periodically.


                R\%/itt


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