-=> Quoting Herry Budiutama to Cameron Hall <=-
 HB> I am probably a purist which is why I just bought a new tape deck.  :)
 HB> its capable of calibrating itself to the new tape as you described.
Is it a 3 head unit?  The calibration procedure works best with those.
 HB> Also, in addition to Dolby B, C, it also has Dolby S-  now how is THAT
 HB> different from the prior NR levels?
 
Can't help ya with the Dolby S.  My deck is an AIWA ADF-990.  Still
records a mean signal on any brand of tape too, well... except for
Ferri-chrome..., but that stuff didn't last long. :-)
 HB> What exactly is EQ ?
 
EQ stands for EQualization.  Referrs to the sound shaping to reduce
noise inherent in tape recording, but is NOT dynamically altered like
noise reduction circuits alter the frequency response.
 CH> What do you mean by "flatter"?  In a perfect cassette deck (which
 HB> Well... Just lower your treble.  It's as though the music is trying to
 HB> go through a huge load of debris.
Then something isn't working right.  If you record at a moderate level,
with say metal tape, there should be almost NO difference between tape
and source except for additonal noise.  If lower recording levels sound
fine, but starts to "flatten" (to use your terminology) at higher record
levels, then either the tape or your machine or both are not up to the
task you are employing them for.  Try premium tapes of Type I (normal),
Type II (Chrome or Chrome equivilent) and Type IV (Metal) and see which
one provides the best overall result.  Note that if a type I can record
at a higher level and cleanly, than say a type II, then often the type I
will be a better buy.  Keep in mind where the tapes are stored though. 
Tyoe I erases more easily.  Metal are the most resistant to print
through and magnetic field erasure.
See ya, Cameron Hall
cameron.hall@bluebeam.gryn.org | ad121@freenet.hamilton.on.ca
Blue Beam BBS | 905 662 5784 | Stoney Creek Ontario Canada | v34 vFC FAX
--- GEcho 1.00
---------------