JS>While in my quet for a more accurate ruger 10/22, I came accross
JS>something that is by no means new, but seems to make a _big_ difference
JS>in my shooting with my rifle:
JS>Installing a set screw on the back of the trigger guard to limit
JS>overtravel of the trigger.  I've had a trigger job done on mine, pull is
JS>down to about 2.5#, action polished.  But I've always noticed that when
JS>the hammer drops, the scope would pull significantly off target.  Perhaps
JS>this is just my bad shooting form, I am by no means a target shooter.
JS>But I was inspired by the target triggers I saw advertised for around
JS>$100 that had overtravel limits.
JS>So I used a 10/32 tap and stainless setscrew, and a bit of lock-tite, and
JS>adjusted the trigger for about 1/32" overtravel only.  The difference was
JS>immediately apparent while just dry-firing.  Subsequent live firing
JS>proved it to be so, and busting small clods of dirt and trash at the 50
JS>yard range proved to be extremely easy and fun.
This is a worthwhile improvement -- using a set screw, either through
the trigger blade (as in some M1911A1 accuracy jobs) or through the
back of the of the trigger guard is a good idea.
People tend to put a lot of money into the 10/22 (Why?  Because they
CAN! :-))  I'd put my money into a good trigger job, which, as you
point out, is cheap.  You can do it yourself, for just the cost of
springs and a little polishing.
I'd also get a good scope.
Then I'd start shooting -- only when I was convinced I could shoot
better than the rifle would I start rebarelling.
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