1¾a starter tank I spent several weeks reading and prowling shops to gain as
much insight as possible.
One of the major problems and expense I've encountered is the same as years
gone by, lighting. To successfully maintain a reef tank, the hobbyist is
faced with a $600 bill for lighting.
Being frugal in nature and more than accomplished at building things, I have
naturally sought an economical alternative to the equipment offered by the
aquarium trade in shops and mail order.
An electronic ballast will run about $170 for one capable of powering four 4'
long 110w bulbs. Magnetic ballasts are about $70 capable of two similar
bulbs.
Home Depot offers a ballast for $35 capable of powering two 4' 110w bulbs.
Two ballasts would represent the cost of a single mail order ballast.
Electronic ballasts are reported to reduce flicker due to the 60 cycle and
are much cooler. The fix I have for the heat is to mount the ballast
externally and attach a heat sink which will dissipate heat to room air. The
60 cycle flicker has not as yet been proven to be a factor in the successful
maintenance of a reef tank. However, there are several ways of mitigating
the flicker.
First, is to run separate phases and power either two or three ballasts on
individual phases. Since homes are wired with three phase 240v anyway, it's
not much of a problem usually to run two more breakers thru the system and
provide three phase power to lighting to offset the affects of the flicker.
Another possibility is to reverse the hot and nuetral supply on the ballast
thus further reducing the flicker. The ultimate conclusion to this drill is
six ballasts powered from three phases with hot and nuetral reversed on three
of the ballasts. For my system I'm planning a two phase, two ballast system.
Before anyone crys foul at this, keep in mind that the lifetime of a ballast
is for a major part, determined by the load, more ballasts and smaller load
results in longer life and lower overall lifetime costs. Plus, if you are
operating on a budget, such as I am, setup costs can be kept low with
expansion being accomplished as funds are available.
Does anyone know if the magnetic ballasts available mail order are in fact
any different from the ballasts available at half the price from stores such
as Home Depot? If so, is there a difference which would affect performance
such that it would have an affect on a reef aquarium?
Also, I'm vaguely aware of output buffer circuits which can be applied to
ballasts to reduce flicker as well as reduce load to the lamp but not the
ballast. These do somewhat affect light output from the lamp but again,
powering a lamp at 100w vs 110 would greatly increse the operational lifetime
of the lamp. On a four bulb system this would be about a 2% reduction in
w/gal. Not significant I think. Anyway, does anyone have a circuit diagram
I could get for this buffer?
Last question, what's the story with metal halide? I know it needs a ballast
and bulb. What is the voltage of the output from the ballast? I can get
virtually any transformer from Radio Shack and the rest of the components for
about 1/4 what they're being sold for mail order. Unfortunately, I have no
experience with this particular system.
Any insight anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
John
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--- Blue Wave/DOS v2.20 [NR]
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