* Original Area: NANFE
* Original To : All (1:366/47)
SUCCESSFULLY SPAWNING AND RAISING
THE BLACKBANDED SUNFISH (Enneacanthus chaetodon)
By Peter R. Rollo
2308 Cedar Lane
Secane Pa
19018
1-610-543-1660
North American Native Fishes Association
In their native habitat in South Central New Jersey, spawning generally
begins in May or when the water temperature approaches 70 F. On June 20,
1994 I collected two dozen Blackbanded Sunfish, ranging in size from
juvenile to adult. No pregnant females were caught so I assumed I missed
spawning. With two dozen fish I was sure I had several pairs. The water
conditions found at the time of collection were no measurable hardness, pH
of 6.0 and a temperature of 75 F.
From the literature the spawning process proceeds in typical sunfish
fashion. The males construct a nest in the substrate and await a ripe
female. With the approach of a female, the male begins to display with
fins fully extended. The pair circle each other and after a short time the
pair stops circling, the female releases her eggs and the male
simultaneously fertilizes them. The males then remain on their nests to fan
and guard the eggs. I maintained the Blackbanded Sunfish for the
summer in a "community" style 29 gallon aquarium in the house. The 29
gallon tank is equipped with a Whisper 1 power filter with a home made
water current dissipator at the discharge. In their natural habitat
there is virtually no water current present. I am able to get adequate
filtration with minimal current. Aeration is provided by a bubble
wand attached to the back of the tank. There is about two inches of
gravel on the bottom and except for a flower pot turned on its side and a
few rocks, the bottom is bare to facilitate cleaning and fry collection (I
will cover this later). To help satisfy their requirement of lower light
levels, the light is attached to the back of the aquarium stand above the
tank and a thick growth of Water Sprite is maintained on the water
surface. This arrangement reduces the light intensity significantly
while still providing enough light for adequate viewing.
The adult Blackbanded Sunfish will be wintered outside in my shed and housed
in a 20 gallon high aquarium. Filtration is provided by an adjustable flow
Visi-Jet 100 internal power head attached to a sponge filter and an air
driven sponge filter. Lighting is provided by a florescent tube suspended
above of the tank. The light intensity can be lowered to appropriate
levels by adjusting the distance the light is above the tank. An inch and a
half of gravel is provided along with the aquatic plant Elodea or
Anacharis as it is sometimes called. This plant grows especially well during
the winter when the water temperature is below 50 F. Minimal heating is
provided using a submersible heater set on a timer. This arrangement
prevents freezing or major drops in temperature. The heat is manually
controlled and used only when excessively cold. In the summer this tank
is attached to a chiller and maintained at an optimal temperature of 70
F for spawning and raising of fry during the hot summer months.
Filtration is provided by a sponge filter attached to the chiller intake line
and by a power head attached to a sponge filter. The shed is also equipped
with a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan to prevent heat buildups.
Initially I tried to acclimate the Blackbanded Sunfish to my tap water,
which is hard and has a pH of about 6.8. They started off doing well but
within two weeks their health started to decline. Their appetites decreased
and the most noticeable change was that they lost most of their color. Since
it was clear they would not thrive on my terms I went to work turning their
tank water into a close duplicate of their natural habitat. On July 8,
1994 my efforts began. The first problem to solve was how to soften the
water with the least effort. I decided to use a rechargeable ion exchange
softening pillow, which is placed in the filter box. Using a five
gallon container and an extra power filter, I softened the water to
levels that could not be measured by my test kit. I also added Blackwater
Extract to the softened water. The softening process takes about one and a
half to two hours per five gallons. Prepared water is stored in five
gallon bottled water containers with lids. When I had prepared enough
water, I changed the water and observed any changes. Within 48 hours the
fishes natural color returned and they became active and hungry again.
Softening the water appears to be a very important factor for maintenance of
healthy fish. The next problem was how to acidify the water. While
softening the water, I added pH Down to the water till I reached a pH of
6.0 to 6.2. The fish were slowly acclimated to this new water. Once
completely acclimated I sampled the tank water pH and found it to be 6.8
instead of 6.0. I had neglected to consider that my tap water has a high
buffering capacity and the pH will rebound to higher levels unless you
exhaust the buffering capacity of the water. The next time I made water and
adjusted the pH to 6.0 I waited several hours and checked the pH again.
It had rebounded as it had in the tank. The pH was adjusted again and let
to sit overnight. This time the pH remained the same. As an aid to the
acidification and conditioning process, I also filter the water through
peat prior to storage or use. The completed water is tea colored, as it is
in their native habitat, and takes a day to make five gallons of water,
but with the results I have gotten it is worth the trouble. In the summer
the sunfish in the house are fed moderately every other day, and in the
winter, when they are in the shed, they are fed sparingly every three or
four days whenever the water temperature rises above 50 F. Below 50 F
the food in their stomachs digests so slowly that it can actually
spoil before digestion is complete, killing the fish. Besides, I am trying
to recreate their natural environment, and minimal feedings in the winter
is part of it. The foods offered in the summer include fresh hatched
brine shrimp, frozen and freeze dried bloodworms, frozen glassworms, small
live crickets, small live cut up garden worms, live daphnia, frozen
shrimp, live mosquito larva, live cyclops, live black worms and any other
small insect I can catch. The winter diet for these fish will be the same
as that in the summer except for some of the live foods that cannot be
cultured indoors, caught or bought. As with my experiences with breeding
Green Sunfish, the fish endured an average summer temperature (in the house
and shed) of about 80 F and will experience average winter temperatures
of about 40 F in the shed. Thirty-three percent water changes are made
once a week spring, summer and fall. Twenty-five percent water changes
are made about once a month in the winter (when water temperatures are
consistently below 55 F). Don't be lax with water changes. These fish
may be small but they have big appetites and produce large amounts of
waste. It is extremely important that all water added to the aquarium
during water changes be the same temperature, pH and hardness as the
water in the aquarium or you run the risk of stressing or killing the fish.
It is now early August and all is going well. On August 8, 1994 I noticed
that two of the Blackbanded Sunfish appeared to be fanning eggs and were
chasing the other fish away from their designated territory. No nests
were formally constructed. They simply chose natural depressions already
existing in the gravel. I immediately began to consider the possibility
that they were spawning but had to be sure. The next night I noticed
several fish approach the guarded territories slowly and deliberately.
Some were immediately chased away and some were not. It appears
--- Maximus/2 3.01
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* Origin: Emerald Coast/2 (1:366/47)
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