*** Quoting Donna Lewis from a message to Carol Shenkenberger ***
CS >  It would be hard to 'unclogg'.
DL> Boiling water could be poured through it to melt the wax - OUTSIDE of
DL> course in a far corner so the wax doesn't clog the drain lines.
Donna?  I gather this is a new thing for you right?  Not sure but if you are 
new to candle making, you will appreciate the following info, and if you 
arent new to it, another may appreciate the info.  Thats what I call a 
'win-win' message .
What you need to make candles, on a regular basis.  Some of this costs a bit, 
but less in total starting costs than a sewing machine for example.
Must haves:  about 5 cans, metal, empty large coffee tins and medium coffee 
tins mixed are perfect.  (Use these to pour that boiling water over the 
strainer, and you keep the wax after the water has cooled).  Use these mostly 
to store the various colors of 'leftover' wax both from when you heat more 
than you need for a candle, and when you get that bit that runs off into the 
pan as you burn one.  
Optional:  A real melting pot, which is made of seamless non-rustable metal.  
You put the wax to actually melt in this.  You *can* use one of the tins 
above, but they will start to rust at the edges which will discolor the wax 
after a time.
Optional:  Real molds, made of non-rustable metal.  If cant afford a melting 
pot and these, buy these first.
Optional:  Specialty molds, in 2 piece plastic type. Use duct tape to seal 
edges and a hot butter knife to remove the edges left on the wax after 
cooling. Enlarge the pouring hole at the base with a craft knife or sizzors.
Must haves:  Professional wick material, dont try 'yarn or regular string' if 
you want a usable candle.
Must haves:  Sticks to tie the wick to as it holds above the wax.  I use the 
oriental skewers sold for 1$ for a pack of 50 or so.
Optional:  Plug wax, used at the 'bottom' of the mold (which becomes the top 
of the candle) to seal about the knot in the wick.  Can use duct tape at 
ed.
Must haves:  A deep non-leakable 'something' to set the mold in.  Its volume 
should be enough that if you didnt seal the mold fully and all the hot wax 
leaks out, it will all fit in the pan and not on your floor.  (a coffee tin 
will do but I use some old rusted cakepans that are obviously too rusted to 
bake a cake in).
Optional/Required:  If you dont have metal molds, something else to use for 
them such as milk cartons (I advise small ones like lunch sized as the bigger 
ones dont make good burning candles unless you use at least 2 wicks and that 
looks wierd and melts wierder but in old days when we used candles for light, 
it was not a bad idea).
Optional but almost required:  Scents and colors.  For scents, play it SAFE.  
DONT USE ANYTHING NOT MADE FOR CANDLES.  A friend of mine tried to be 'cheap' 
here and added regular perfume to hot wax.  Fortunately it all healed up with 
no permanent damage to her eyes or looks, but I dont advise that trick nor 
would she.  Colors are easier with ones made for candlemaking but feel free 
to experiment with crayons (tend to make the wax burn wierd as the wax in 
crayons isnt candle wax) or food coloring (Tends to smell odd as it burns but 
harmless otherwise and your milage may vary).  For colors I like best the wax 
color chips as they are inexpensive, work well, and are very easy to use.
Process is very easy.  Melt wax safely by placing wax in a tin/melting pot, 
and placing that in heated water in a second pan.  (I have a very cheap pot 
used just for the water, as the old coffee tins leaked a bit and I only later 
got a true melting pot).  The water should not boil.  Wax takes time to melt. 
 Regular parafin type takes about 20 mins per lb at the right heat but dont 
expect to see much at the first 20 mins .  Set the temp to 'just under 
boil' and check it quite often in your first few makings til you get a feel 
for the temps required.  (I believe beeswax melts at a different level and 
think it is a lower point so be especially careful there!)
While wax is melting, get molds ready by placing wicks.  Knot them at the 
'bottom' which in the finished product is the 'top' and seal with tape or 
whatever is required.  The two piece molds will come with many plastic 
'stand' pieces so fit those to the sides (tape them also!) and the bottom 
(tape that too!) and ignore the top piece.  A wide terra cotta planter base 
with lots of fishgravel came in handy in my early years with the two piece 
plastic novelty molds (Place mold to bottom of planter base, then scoop fish 
gravel to hold it in place, then pour wax).  Knot the wick 'top' (which at 
the finished product will be the bottom of the candle) and tie that about a 
stick of some sort (have friend who swears an old fork is easier as it wont 
move about due to the tongs.  Me, I just used pliers to make a small 'dip' 
for the sticks I was trained to use and works for me on my metal molds).
Once wax is mostly melted, you can start adding color and scents.  If wax is 
not completely melted before you start pouring it into the molds, the later 
portions will not have as strong of a color or scent.
Once you pour, you need to reserve some wax (about 6% or so) to fill in the 
dips which will naturally occur as the wax cools.  Solid wax shrinks.  To 
make the best looking candles, dont let it cool all the way before you start 
adding replacement wax, but do let it cool til a thin film is across the top 
and an obvious dip is present.  (Small candles wont show this much of a dip 
so use your judgement).
CS > The one I would actually use is a wire strainer I have in my kitchen.
CS > It too might clog up, but could be boiled free rather easily.  As long
CS > as I was only straining beeswax (a natural product that wouldnt hurt you
CS > if you ate a little by accident) I would even keep using the cleaned
CS > strainer in my kitchen.
DL> I need to find one that is finer than the one I have.  I'd rather empt
DL> it more often than have to keep straining through several different to
DL> that each have a finer mesh.  Why dirty 3 tools if 1 will do the job?
Smile, thats exactly the ticket. The one I have, is a fine mesh.
 > DL> Do you know where I can get citronella oil?
CS > That one is pretty easy.  I wouldne even bother with my mailorder candle
CS > company.  Walmart carries it, so do most large hardware stores and
CS > larger craft stores.  A check of your local phone book will probably
CS > show a local chemical sales place.  If you call them and they have it,
CS > it will be the least expensive source.  Note:  Citronella is poisonous
CS > so dont use the strainer after adding it, if you ever plan to use the
CS > strainer for anything but candles again.
DL> What Dept in Wal-Mart?
In one store, it is in the craft area, and in the other it is in the garden 
supplies area.
DL> I pretty much would have an unlimited supply of beeswax as I have a fr
DL> who has several bee hives.  For me the beeswax is cheaper than the par
DL> since I'd have to buy that.
Cool!
DL> I like lemon and citrus fragrances and they are very hard to find.  Do
DL> your catalogue show any?
Yes, but my cataloges are old so I cant reliably quote you prices.
I have been candle crafting since I was about 12 years old.  With a schock, I 
realize I am nearing 40.  That tells you how long I have been at it.  In all 
those years, I have found one company I a truely happy with for both service 
(outstanding) and price (excellent).  I can with complete happyiness refer 
you to a company I dont work for or have any attachment to other than 'happy 
customer'.
Pourette MFG CO.
PO Box 15220
Seattle, Washington 98115
Phone:  (206) 525-4488
FAX: (206) 525-2795
I did not copy down their web address, but a search will show them under 
CANDLES POURETTE  just fine.  You an I believe order that way but the full 
catalogue isnt there (just much of it is and I believe enough for your use).
My recommendations for you:
Use coffee tins for now.  Get 2 metal molds, and one specialty mold.  Use an 
old pot for the water pot, and get LOTS of wick, sized OVER what they tell 
you is needed.  Get several color chips (packs are like 1$ each for 10 or so 
and each will color 5lbs of wax), and lots of scents in 8OZ bottle sizes.  If 
going to actually burn the candles, double the scent recommended but not much 
more than that.  Cost should be about 30-50$ max and later as you have fun, 
you can add to it but this will get you started and the molds are eternally 
re-usable.
                                       xxcarol
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