-=> Quoting Chris Hunter to All <=-
 CH> As a beginning diver, I am looking for suggestion on which type of
 CH> regulator  to purchase. I am not looking for anything that is
There are two main types of regulators: Piston and Diaphragm.
I strongly recommend you purchase the Diaphragm type.  This is because
the diaphragm seals the internal working parts from direct contact with
sea water.  In a Piston type first stage, the piston separates the
bias chamber from the "innards".  The problem is that the piston is
a major moving part and the bias chamber is open to the outside environment.
Grit and salt crystals can accumulate in the bias chamber and nick
the primary o-ring of the piston, which results in a major air leak.
Diaphragm type regulators are not subject to this kind of failure
as the outer edge of the diaphragm is not in moving contact with
the wall of the bias chamber, as is the piston.  My regulator is a
Beauchat VS-10, a diaphragm type that retails for about $329, although
you can often find them on sale for a lot less.
For comparison, the Beauchat VS-4 is a piston type, as is the TUSA
model 200, and these cost around $100 less than a VS-10.
In my opinion, the extra stability and reliability of
a diaphragm regulator is worth the somewhat higher initial cost.
Good quality regulators are available in many makes and models:
US Divers, Beauchat, ScubaPro, Sherwood, TUSA, Dacor, and Mares
just to name a few.
Remember that whichever regulator you end up with, there are a couple
of simple maintenance rules that will help it live longer and maybe
save you from having to abort a dive due to reg failure:
(Or maybe even save your life!)
1. Rinse the regulator thoroughly after every dive with clean fresh water,
and try to squirt rinse water into the bias chamber through the vent
holes to flush salt out of there.
2. If possible, do the rinsing while the regulator is still attached
to a tank and pressurized. This will keep water out of the first stage
internals.  If the regulator is not mounted, make sure the sealing cap
is SECURELY fastened over the air inlet before you start squirting
water on it. 
3. Avoid dunk tanks and rinse your equipment with running water from
a hose whenever you can.  The water in dunk tanks can be so salty
from repeated use by a group of divers that it is little better than
not rinsing at all.
4. When dismounting your regulator from the tank after a dive, blow
the sealing surface of the air inlet cap completely dry with an blast
of air before attaching it to the regulator.  Residual water in the
dust cap is a major source of moisture contamination in a regulator.
5. Get your regulator serviced at least once a year, so that
if any moisture or salt contamination has occured, it can be cleaned
before the corrosion damage progresses so far as to make the unit
unsafe and/or unrepairable.
Moisture and salt are the mortal enemies of the internal parts
of your regulator, some of which are so small they are difficult
to handle without tweezers or a hemostat.  Anything you can do to keep
water from entering the regulator will help it live a long reliable
life. 
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