| TIP: Click on subject to list as thread! | ANSI |
| echo: | |
|---|---|
| to: | |
| from: | |
| date: | |
| subject: | HVDC TRANSMISSION LINES |
JB> JB>> Rainly night city driving does it to me, wipers and two headlights JB> JB>> while spendind most of my time at idling the motor while at traffic JB> JB>> lights.... JB> JB>> I drive round in a lower gear, and apply the park brake and run the JB> JB>> motor a little faster when stopped... seems to solve it for me. JB> JE> You haven't solved a cotton picking thing. You have just JB> JE> circumvented the problem! Why not actually FIX the problem JB> JE> by replacing the alternator or finding the root cause of the JB> JE> problem? JB>I don't drive much at night anyway, or visit the city often, and the JB>weather is mostly fine. But what about the times you DO drive at night, or visit the city or the weather isn't fine or all three conditions at once??? JB>I've has the car for 4 years and this problem has presented itself twice JB>haviong a manual transmission and few flat streets in brisbane city it's JB>not a big problem if a warm motor stalls with a flat battery. JB>The car is 10 years old, when I got it it had the external regulator, I JB>replaced altenator with a used one when the first one's bearings failed JB>and the internal reglator on that one lasted about 6 months. My 92 Ford Crown Vic and my 92 Chevy PU are both 10 years old - I wouldn't dream of operating either as you are doing. JB>The problem may be with the internal regulator not being designed for B>this climate, Not a likely thing. We have climates here where the day time temp is 110-120 degrees F. and also places where it is 10-20 degrees below 0 - F. Internal regulators work just fine nearly always. The few that fail work just fine when replaced. JB>the external regulator keeps the battery charged, and a fault is indicated JB>diagnosed if the battery voltage drops to 12v or lower with the engine JB>running at a moderate speed. JB>I've considered making a regulator that uses the altyenators auxilliary JB>half-bridge to power the field but I haven't quite figured out how I should JB>do that. JB> This is what it had JB> instrumentation fuse JB> . JB> . . . . Altenator warning lamp JB> . . JB> . | . . diode to stop "afterglow" in the lamp JB> ign+ . | . .' JB> ------oxo-+-(X)-----|>|-----. _____\ JB> | ||~~T~/ to bat+ JB> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|. ||. | . . JB> | || | JB> .------------|>|--| || | JB> ___|\|__ 1 __|\|___________|__|| | JB> ||~~|/|~~~~~~~|/|~~||~~~~~~~|~~~ `- sense wire to regulator JB> || || | JB> || .-------||--|>|--+--- power wire to regulator JB> ||__|\|__ 2 __|\|__|| | JB> ||~~|/|~~~~~~~|/|~~|| | JB> || || | JB> || .-------||--|>|--' JB> ||__|\|__ 3 __|\|__|| small rectifier with 1A diodes JB> ||~~|/|~~~~~~~|/|~~~ JB> || JB> __||___ main rectifier with chunky 50A (I guess) diodes JB>/////// JB> 1 2 3 are connections to altenator the stator windings. JB>What I've got presently uses a relay to switch in a three-terminal generic JB>external regulator (one terminal "B" gets the battery voltage via the relay JB>the other "D" goes to the field terminal of the altenetor (the other JB>terminal is bolted to thr chassis) Ingenious to say the least, but a good factory regulator designed for the alternator.car should prove better. Jay --- þ OLXWin 1.00b þ Pete Rose sat on a tack. Pete rose!* Origin: Try Our Web Based QWK: DOCSPLACE.ORG (1:123/140) SEEN-BY: 633/267 270 @PATH: 123/140 500 106/1 379/1 633/267 |
|
| SOURCE: echomail via fidonet.ozzmosis.com | |
Email questions or comments to sysop@ipingthereforeiam.com
All parts of this website painstakingly hand-crafted in the U.S.A.!
IPTIA BBS/MUD/Terminal/Game Server List, © 2025 IPTIA Consulting™.