You where writing to Landon Robinson;
Since its in my nature to be devils advocate, here goes... =-)
> so you will find after market ring & pinion gears, or perhaps 
> an antique rear end... with a higher ratio, lower RPM output. 
All which should be carefully selected on what you want the vehicle to do.
> presumeably you will install long shackles on the back end of 
> the leaf springs to get the height to clear the fenders for a 
NO! NO! NO! NO! NO! Got it? =) Look to a more arched spring, or extra
leaves in the pack depending on how much extra height you need.
 Those shackles are pretty good levers.. One day you will find
your tires offset in one direction or the other after a good turn.
 If you insist on shakles, purchase/make high quality units with proper
gusseting and bracing.
> pair of big tires. You might wanna consider adapter plates to 
> fit other rims on your hub. the adaptor will also widen the 
> stance of the rear tires, which may be needed to fit the tire 
> into the fender anyway.  JC Whitney? 
  Do it right, purchase the right wheels for the application.  Stress on
the lugnuts from a spacer is a sure fire way to eventually find out how
strong they are. Adapters are no better.  A few bucks saved now is a lot of
bucks spent later on unnecessary repairs. 
> and change the angle of the engine mounts as well, or shim the 
> rear axle mounts, *so as to keep the axis of the crankshaft/ 
Axle. Not engine. Sumps and drainage are meant to work one way. If you do
go with engine/tranny tilting, check distributor/firewall clearance, fan
clearance, hose changes.  Better to just adjust the axle and utilize a CV
jointed driveshaft if angles are severe.
> gear. That scarring don't actually damage the ring gear over 
> the short term, but the whine that arises out of it will drive 
> you nuts. 
Thats what the blower is for... =-)
> brake single cylindar drum brake design.. or whether you could 
> fit the drum from a two ton truck chassis... or maybe whole 
> rear end.
Measure everything. You might have to relocate spring perches.  GM 1 ton
trucks have a narrower spring spacing than the 1/2 and 3/4 tons. However,
are you prepared to pay a weight and ground clearance penalty by converting
to a full floater?
> *all* of the heavier truck rear ends will use floating axles, 
> which I expect are also larger in diameter, and won't shear 
> every time you floor a big V-8, probly come with higher gear
I wouldn't count on it these days.  What counts as heavy duty today was
considered medium/light duty 15 years ago. Of course, that depends on what
vehicle is your donor. =)
> ratios, and larger brake drums.  Remember that even if one of 
> the floating axles does shear, the wheel still stays on the 
> car, the brakes still work, and you can tow it with a rope. 
Gotta love the full floaters for that.  Could make for good practical jokes
to..  =)
Alex.
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... Being a pain in the ass is a perogative of the creative mind
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