Craig Healy wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason:
 CH> Yup!  Older cars are a bit of a challenge.  Though what I do is 
 CH> figure what I'd spend for a decent *new* car, and put that 
 CH> aside for maintenance.  Makes it easier when I explain it to 
 CH> the wife as well ;)
That's the thing,  for me to go out and buy a new truck,  I'd be spending 
what,  $20,000 or so?  I could spend a whole LOT less than that,  a bit here 
and there,  no bank or finance company breathing down my neck about *when* I 
spend the money,  and still end up with something that's going to be just as 
good when I'm done.
Sure,  I'm doing most of the work myself,  and it's going to take me a heck 
of a lot longer that way,  but I think that the result is going to be well 
worth it.
 CH> Maybe that hockey-puck repair that Alexander suggested might be 
 CH> a quick and dirty way out.  Drop a puck in gasoline, and see if 
 CH> the rubber survives.  I seem to remember that about 1973, 
 CH> Chrysler went from mounting the k-member solid, to using 
 CH> rubber.  This was for noise reduction.  If you can stand a 
 CH> minor noise increase, solid might be the way to go. Once it's 
 CH> stable, the alignment can be set to solve the tire wear trouble.
I'll have to see what I can find as far as alternatives are concerned,  I've 
got the word out with a couple of people now.
 CH> I suspect I'll let that '66 go.
I'll see if it's still around when I get this truck done.  And if I've got a 
place to put it.    Right now the truck is sitting at a friend's place,  I 
don't own,  I only rent here and there are too many vehicles here now!
 CH> Will keep the 440 engine, however. A forged crank/non-thinwall 
 CH> block engine is a good thing.
Yep.  I may want to step up some from that 318 I'm sticking in the truck,  
once I put it on the road and start hauling around a camper with it.  
 CH> And this also has the crank drilled for a standard-shift pilot 
 CH> bushing.
What's that all about?
email: roy.j.tellason%tanstaaf@frackit.com 
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