RJT>GW> GW>> (On most systems I'm used to the alternator
reaches full output
RJT>GW> GW>> at about 25% max revs). The traditional solution
is to up the
RJT>GW> GW>> engine idle speed - but that only works for stick
shift systems.
RJT>GW> GW>> For automatics all you can do is cut down the
power use (lower
RJT>GW> GW>> heater fan speed, no extra lights) or put the
battery on charge
RJT>GW> GW>> overnight...

RJT>GW> JE> RJT>Not too likely for the senior citizens that are
having this
RJT>GW> JE> problem.

RJT>GW> JE> Present day alternators (last 15 yrs at least) will support most
RJT>GW> JE> everything normally used (A/C, headlights, radio, etc.) in a car
RJT>GW> JE> AT engine idle speeds.

RJT>GW>Not in my experience... As I said above, most alternators only reach
RJT>GW>full output at about 25% max revs (for most people it's about 1500
RJT>GW>rpm), however they will match the usual nighttime load at about 1000
RJT>GW>rpm. On my car (less than 10 years old) the alternator goes off
RJT>GW>regulation with the headlights on at somewhere around the 1000 rpm
RJT>GW>mark, idle is at 700 rpm... You can see the headlights dim as the
RJT>GW>alternator goes off regulation.

RJT> JE> I have a 92 ford Crown Vic and a 92 Chevy 3/4 ton PU. Neither act
RJT> JE> that way. My previous tow vehicle, a 79 Ford 460 Van didn't either.
RJT> JE> The head light on all three stayed bright at normal idle.

RJT>I noticed that behavior in cars that I owned that went back to the 70s,  but
RJT>none of what we have now (88 and 90) act like that.  They probably changed
RJT>something,  though I couldn't say exactly what...

Roy I would reckon it depends upon the car. My kids late model Suburbans
both act as my cars did. However, if you get into the smaller cars they
may well not have enough Alternator to do the job under idling
conditions.

                        Jay
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