JF> that I also can not get S4 or S3 although W1 and G4 are clear on either
 JF> side of S4. 
 JF> After much tuning I called the dealer to have them come and look. 
 JF> They say that the dish is warped because of the "pattern" of birds that
 JF> are not coming in clear.
 There are several things that you can do without a digital tuning meter to
 check for proper dish setup.  If you have a digital on-screen signal 
strength 
 display and a cordless phone with intercom feature, you and a helper can
 talk while making small adjustments to the dish to see if any aiming changes
 are needed.  Here are some hints for you, do them in this order.
 1.  Check for dish warping:  Stand beside the dish and look across the 
     outter rim to see if the near and far sides are parallel and flat.
     You should do this from two vantage points that are about 90 deg apart
     when viewed from above.  Example: if the face(rim) of the dish was a
     clock, then you could check from the 4:00 and 7:00 positions.  If you
     notice any warping (the potato chip effect), it is not easy to fix.
     Sometimes, if the dish was dropped or damaged you may be able to bend
     the damaged area back into shape. It takes two or three people.
 2.  Check for feedhorn centering:  use a locking tape measure to see if the
     feedhorn is equidistant from the rim of the dish.  On older dishes you
     will have a single pole supporting the feed, and it can be bent to get
     it right.  On newer dishes the quad-support legs usually have a slot on
     one end so that you can adjust the centering.
 3.  Elevation Check: Put the dish on the satellite that is most directly 
     South from you, then have your helper slowly raise or lower the low 
     point of the rim to see if the dish needs to have the elevation 
adjusted.  
     This is the larger of the two up/down adjustments on the mount.  Change
     the setting before you do the next check, since one affects the other.
 4.  Azimuth Check:  Put the dish on a low satellite (F4 for you), then have
     your helper slowly and slightly pull the left and right edge of the 
ish,
     as if you were trying to turn the dish on the pole.  Loosen and re-set 
the
     mount/pole bolts if needed.
 5.  Check the offset (declination) setting: This is the smaller of the 
up/down
     adjustments, and should have been set by the original installer. This 
adj.
     determines the amount of curve of the tracked arc.  Too much offset will
     result in the middle satellites being over-tracked. If you have moved 
the 
     dish to a new latitude, the original setting will be wrong.  Here in 
Tampa 
     the setting is 4 to 4.5 deg. Yours might be 4.5 to 5 deg. To check it 
     without an angle finder tool: after the elevation and azimuth are set  
     properly you put the dish on a satellite about half way between south
     and F1(west), then slightly raise and lower the south rim of the dish to
     determine if it is over-tracking or under-tracking that satellite.  
Adjust
     the declination adj. if needed.  Then you must go back and re-set the 
     elevation adj. to compensate for the off-set change.  After you get 
teps
     3,4, and 5 right the dish should be tracking properly.
     
 JF> I guess what I am wondering is.....Was the dish warped from day one
 JF> since F1 falls into that pattern and it is only now being noticed when
 JF> programming moved around.
 Since you don't have a heavy snow load there, either an ice load or someone
 could have bent your dish.  If a tree is in the way, you can tell by putting
 the dish on that satellite and sighting the satellite by standing behind the
 dish and looking down the boresight (beam) to place an imaginary line 
hrough
 the sky.  Then imagine an 8ft circle around that line to see if the tree is
 in the way.
 Good luck.
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