> I'm looking at a 100A GM single-wire rebuilt unit (for $120), that is
> supposed
> to have a "current monitoring" built-in regulator that is advertised to
> charge
> whenever it's needed.  I'll have to throw those RPM speeds at them and
> see if
> they know what I'm referring to.  The idle speed of the engine is 675,
I should add, thats alternator RPM. Not engine rpm. Sorry about that.
I'm casting a leery eye on this current sensing nonsense, to get output from
a generator/alternator it has to turn.
If you keep speed constant, alternator output is not going to change becuase
of a "smart regulator". You can't get out more  out of the regulator than
you put into it.
Of course, before we can yell out false advertising, its not. In a way.  The
job of the regulator is to output 12 volts (14) regardless of load (current
draw) as long as it falls within the working parameters of the regulator.
 I would equate that to saying "We have this great digital tuner for your
stereo system...and get this! It comes with Radio Station Detecting Digital
Display which tells you what station your picking up".  Well, sure, its
true, but far from technically correct, or even above and beyond anyones
expectations.
If you have web access, check out
http://vette.ide.net/hib/reman.html
Theres an article on the newer AC Delco CS130 which is designed for low rpm
operation, and is used on later model vettes.  They also go into
retro-fitting these units to earlier vettes.
If it applies to vettes with 10SI units you'll have to check, if it does,
the information will for the most part be applicable to any GM with a 10SI.
> and I'm
> sure I could probably bring that up to 700 without any problems.  But
> according to what you state (above), I'll still have to raise it a bit
> more. 
> I wonder if there's any way to automatically raise the engine RPM (via
> throttle) when the alt' senses that it needs to charge, and then lowers
> the RPM again when charging is done.
You can utilize an idle stop solenoid to change engine rpm, which is wired
in a way that it only operates when the vehicle is in park or neutral, and
at the drivers command.  You don't want something kicking your rpm up
unexpectedly in stop & go traffic.
Pully diameter. Increase the pully size on the alternator, or decrease the
pully size on the crank to increase the alternators RPM.  Borrow a shaft
tachometer (one which you hold against the rotating shaft) to check
alternator RPM. And/Or, do an at idle load test with the proper equipment
to see what you're putting out with "a stock" setup.
You may well be within spec, but if you're drawing a bunch of current, you
do want to check that your keeping the alternator spinning fast enough.
Another point to consider, when you approach max alternator output, it gets
difficult to turn, you could concievably stall your engine if rpm is not
compensated. Keep a few extra belts on hand as well. =)
> 1970 Jeep Wagoneer V8-350 (Buick Engine)
I like the combination! 
> I've already considered the dual battery config, and plan on doing that
> when finances allow.  Those 'new' Optima SpiralCore batteries look good for
> placing
> one on each side of the cargo area (inside) just behind the wheelwells.
Whatever works. But don't the Optimas fit in the stock location? One there,
and the other wherever you see fit to place one.  I'm not too keen on having
a pair (or any) battery in the passenger compartment.  
> Well, lets see...  There'll be my Amateur Radio gear (VHF/HF) which will
> draw
> about 8 amps in receive and 25-30 in transmit.  Then the stereo and amp,
> add
> another 10-12 amps there.  Add things like the laptop, driving lights,
> etc...
> and I think we can easily see a minimum of 30 amps to a maximum of over
> 60
> total (including ignition).  Does that sound realistic to you ?
Current draws seem realistic. And since your a HAM, I can see the reason for
the idle current requirements. =-)   
Do you have an HEI in that Buick mill of yours?
>  AB> This regulator is good for upto 100 amps, and if the parts guy is
>  AB> having difficulty locating it, its a marine part.
> 
> I've thought about using marine parts, and I figure that the RPM speed
> might
> be a bit lower on them (or do I have that backwards ?), requiring less
> speed in order to produce the rated charging level.
The single wire GM regulator is one part. Only one part. Street or Marine.
If you have a clueless parts guy, thats where you have to steer him towards
the marine section of the parts book.
It is a resonable conclusion to make, since boats do idle for long periods
of time, however, under "normal" operating conditions, I don't think one
ever has to put out any serious output.  Again, since its alternator rpm
that dictates output, boat pulleys may be such that the alternator turns at
an appropriate speed.
Again, its a matter of checking. See what your current setup puts out. Any
garage can do a load test, see what it puts out at idle, and use that as an
extra baseline to help decide what course of action to take.
Alex.
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