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Charles Angelich wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: CA>> Low to no pressure molding would limit access to certain _types_ CA>> of plastic but for a case to hold other parts that shouldn't be a CA>> problem. RJT> Hm. Is any of this applicable to making stuff at home? Or is it RJT> only something you'd want to get into for a certain volume of RJT> "stuff"? CA> I know there was a kid's toy that could make things using vacuum CA> molding and it was used by the engineer who designed the CA> 'Mako-shark' Corvette concept vehicle to make his slot car bodies. CA> :-) It was called a 'Vacu-Form'. I remember that thing, though heaven only knows if it's even still available. Or how practical it'd be for different uses. My memory suggests that it worked with really thin plastic... Typical of toy makers/sellers to not have stuff like that. There were a whole mess of things out there when I was a kid that don't seem to be around any more, mostly things that would let you build stuff. Erector sets in particular are getting really hard to find. The local ToysRUs store told me that they'd gone out of business, which turned out not to be the case. CA> Foam molding would be comparatively easy to do but I seem to recall CA> the catalyst was eurea (urine smell) and I think that without CA> adequate ventilation it can be deadly? I remember a Lionel (!) plastics kit I had at one time that included among other things the supposed ability to make styrofoam with a couple of molds supplied. There were problems when I tried that, using the oven, one time producing a black charred result, the other time not being long enough and a pile of pellets fell out of the mold. Don't think I ever did get a good one before I lost interest in it. CA> A wood model maker demonstrated one reason these types of CA> chemicals are not used by hobbyists by putting two rags soaked CA> with different types one on top of the other and they burst CA> into flames within about 2 minutes. Not good. Heh. Do you recall what was on them? Sounds like something to avoid at all costs. I worry sometimes about different chemicals I have sitting around, things for automotive and other applications. CA> If you just want to dabble you could use auto-body filler as the CA> 'plastic' and make the 'mold' from parffin (wax). Easy to do and CA> you can remelt the wax and reuse it many times. Good idea. And it's easy enough to work with the results, though I don't know how much this would apply to any of what I want to do. CA> Last time I checked you could build quite elaborate circuits by CA> gluing surface-mount chips onto a business card and drawing in the CA> circuit board with a pencil. Who needs a case? Oh really?! Wow, there's a thought. You'd have to get something better than an ordinary #2 pencil, though, easy enough to do at an art supply store. But then I've never really had much desire to mess with surface-mount stuff, I could probably salvage some of it but don't think I'd necessarily want to work with it much. There was an article in the current issue of Nuts 'n' Volts about doing your own at home, and they basically seemed to be talking about producing a stencil and then using paste solder for the soldering. You'd have to buy the stencil from a commercial producer, and the paste solder as well. The actual soldering operation was done in a toaster oven. Seemed like a lot of trouble to go to, to me. Unless there was something you wanted to do that was *only* available in that kind of a part configuration... The article did say that "through-hole" parts were getting scarcer all the time. I am not particularly worried about it as for home-brew stuff I have plenty of parts, enough to keep me out of trouble for some time yet. ---* Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-838-8539 (1:270/615) SEEN-BY: 633/267 270 @PATH: 270/615 150/220 379/1 106/1 2000 633/267 |
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