>  If I do the BFH thing I'm at least going to try and make it look nice,
> I'm  not going to have this huge crater behind the engine.
 =) You'd have to be pretty darn determined and full of excess energy to
bash such a large crater into your firewall. =-)
>  I don't remember seeing any HEI units (that had all their parts
> (excluding
>  the cap and rotor of course)) the last time I was there. Were all the  
You got some sort of rebuilder around? Or some small track racing outfits
nearby (they gobble(d) up manual steering boxes around here)
>  HEI units the same from whenever they started making them to when they 
>  stopped? I'm talking about the large cap units with the coil mounted in
> the
>  middle. And will they be the same on any GM car or will it have minor
>  differences that would make it hard of difficult to stick in a Chevy
> 350?
Any HEI you pull out of a Chevy will fit any chevy engine.  The basic unit
is identical.  However, for a better mechanical advance curve pull the HEI
from a 305 (faster curve).  However theres plenty of aftermarket kits out
there to tailor your mechanical advance regardless of which HEI you
eventually end up with.
Somewhere around 1978 or 1979 GM added nylon bushings to the mechanical
advance weight pivots. Your choice for your line of thinking. If you put
some lube on the pivots semi-regularily the old style will do just fine.
Check out for any excess wobble at the mecanical advance pivots.
Check the distributor drive gear.
Check for worn shaft bearings (side to side wobble).
Before putting it in the car check the vacuum advance cans advance amount.
Its stamped on the top, behind the can (two digit number)(theres sometimes a
three digit code as well).  If it says anything more than 12 degrees, scrap
it and put in a 10 degree can (Cdn AC Delco p/n d1370a)  OR, if you have
time to kill, find the pile of distributors at the autowreckers and look for
a 10 degree can and swap it there.
To fit to your car: 1) Remove the "start" wire that goes to the coil (this
wire runs to the starter solenoid, outermost terminal)
2) Trace back the resistance wire to the fuse block, and replace it with a
12 guage wire.
3) Check for 12 volts in run and start
4) Attach to HEI.
Further details/rambling at the web page.
>  I checked out your Web page the other night, cool page. Any idea when
> you are going to have the Q-Jet section running?
Thanks.  I'm trying to keep it a usefull site. =)
I don't have a set date for the q-jet section, I need a good few hours to
start that article. Some of these things take a bit of writing and editing
to get all the ideas down in a somewhat proper order. =)
Have you got a specific Q-jet question?
Alex.
http://www.real.on.ca/~leadfoot/
 | AmiQWK 2.7 - S/N 0261 |
... On the other hand, you also have 5 fingers.
--- OLMS 2.60p.a1+ [EPMAP55A]
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