KK> Maybe steel alloys have gotten a lot better since I was riding in
KK> the 70s, but back then, if you put a hard season on a chain, you
KK> knew it had stretched, and therefore worn different spacings into
KK> the rear cogs.  So when you replaced the chain you also replaced
KK> the freewheel.  The only exception I ever saw was a freewheel
KK> called a Regina Oro -- I went thru two chains before I had to
KK> replace it.
KK> But maybe the steels are better now.
KK> Anyway, if you have 4000 miles on your chain and cog, I would just
KK> replace them both, on general principles.  if you put a new chain
KK> on a worn freewheel, the chain will hop around and not shift right.
The shop adjusted the gears and all, and it seems to be working absolutly
fine, without replacing the cog or the chain.. Maybe I've been lucky and the
newer 1994+ models are built better..
KK> I used to think of this as an opportunity rather than an expense.
KK> After all, you know very well which gears you use all the time.
KK> If you know that there are three gears you spend most of your time
KK> in, you could build a new freewheel with five narrowly spaced gears
KK> in that same range.
True, indeed.
KK> I used to ride in the era when there was no such thing as a 28-tooth
KK> front ring.  I liked to ride in the mountains, and I coulda used
KK> them stump-puller gears!

KK> The best chain lube I know of is motorcycle chain lube.  It sometimes
KK> comtains Teflon or synthetic greases, but the main ingredient is
KK> molybdenum disulfide.  Moly-di is a metal salt that presses itself
KK> into the microscopic hills and valleys in the chain's metal parts, and
KK> reduces friction dramatically.  You just spray a teeny bit onto each
KK> chain link, wipe off all exccess, and let the volatile carrier solvents
KK> evaporate.  Do this every few months, and you'll notice that the chain
KK> runs almost silently.
oky dok.
GH
 * WCE 2.1G1/2251 * garyh@superlink.net
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