-=> Quoting Landon Robinson to Jeff Gordon <=-
LR> The thermostat is a 195 degree version.
Does the temperature rize normally when first cold to a normal reading?
If you have no gauge then drive around for awhile, stop and gingerly
break the radiator cap with a heavy rag just enough to let some steam
escape. Is it hot? Almost to boiling? It should be if the thermo's
working right.
LR> The jets as far as I know are
LR> the original jets that the carb came with. I bought the car used so I
LR> have no idea.
Did it ever run for you without these symptoms? If you bought it used
it's possible it's the wrong carb or ??? Make sure the carb is a
correct model for your vehicle. It's probably not the problem.
Is there carb preheat on this vehicle, i.e., a channel for exhaust
gas to travel up to the base of the carbureator? If there is,
and it's plugged, then clean out the passages in the manifold with
a piece of coat hanger wire. If it's got a custom intake manifold
rather than the original ???
JG> Did you change plugs for one's with a colder tip?
LR> I changed the plugs from Autolite 145's to Autolite 25's. I'm
LR> considering going with AC R43T's.
Use hot plugs rather than cold ones. In most plugs the number
increases with the tip temperature, e.g., for AC, 44 is a cold plug
45 average, and 46 hot. Try the hot ones and see if your problem
goes away. Drive for 5000 miles then pull the plugs and look at
them. If they are highly eroded and brown, it means they're too
hot...if so replace them with the next lower temperature plug and
repeat the test. If the replacement looks light tan and the
tip looks good then you've got the right plugs in the vehicle.
If the plug looks sooty, foul, black or wet then it's too cold.
I think you're going the wrong way in going to R43T's. You can
tell by comparing the insulator length. If the R43T's have
a shorter ceramic insulator between the tip and the body of
the plug then it's a colder plug. Longer insulator...hotter
plug, shorter insulator...colder plug.
JG> Jeff
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12
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