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Matt Mc_Carthy wrote in a message to Roy J. Tellason: MMC>> Well, you did say earlier that it runs hot without the shroud! RJT> Yeah. Temp gauge runs up to between 1/3 and halfway when it's RJT> been sitting there idling long enough. Take it on the highway RJT> and it gets way over there... MMC> That sounds backwards. Are you sure you have a clean radiator and MMC> block core? .............. Well, when I was putting things together one of the things I did was to take the two radiators to a local shop and ask for the best they could do with them. Unfortunately they couldn't do anything with the bigger one of the two, so I ended up putting the smaller one in the truck. The guy at the local junkyward looked at that and told me I had about the smallest radiator I could _have_ in a truck. And as far as the rest of it goes, all hoses are new, and my brother and I spent some time one day and flushed the whole system out, completely, did a real thorough job of it. I didn't have that stuff in there any 10 minutes like the label recommended, either, I put it in and then drove over to his place, about an hour away. Thermostat's new, been replaced too in case the one I put in there to begin with was bad. This thing's geared real low at the rear (4.10?) and is also hauling around a *lot* more metal than any lightweight, it's a 3/4 ton truck. And that's not an overdrive transmission either, so at highway speeds that motor is working pretty hard. MMC>> cars were overheating. This happened to coincide with the MMC>> beginning of EPA requirements, and manufacturers "detuned" MMC>> engines as a first step, which also resulted in higher engine MMC>> temperatures. RJT> Which aspects of things had they changed there? This motor came RJT> out of a car which was a 1975 model year. The truck is a 1978. MMC> Idle timing was set much "late" compared to earlier years of the MMC> identical engine. This increases engine heat considerably, and MMC> actually 'wastes' the heat being generated to produce the MMC> horsepower. I'm thinking that the timing on this might be a little far advanced, that maybe I oughta back it off some. MMC> Is that engine an inline 6? What brand? It's a V-8, a 318 (mopar, I don't drive much else). MMC>> Along with the higher temperatures, they began putting sealing MMC>> strips at the rear of the hood, so the heat could no longer MMC>> escape over the winshield as it did in older cars. RJT> I don't quite understand that, there's a set of what looks like RJT> vents across the bottom of the windshield, but they sure don't RJT> open into the engine compartment. Dunno why they'd build things RJT> that way. MMC> Those vents below the winshield are now the air intake vents for MMC> the passenger compartment. MMC> ............................ I don't remember offhand if there are any sealing strips, though. I *do* remember those in my other truck (a Ford) and that they were falling off... RJT> This one's two parts, if I remember right, rivets in the center. MMC> See comments below! MMC>> At the same time, they changed to a smaller sized fan/water pump MMC>> pulley (or a larger size crankshaft pulley), to speed up the fan. RJT> Now there's something I could probably fiddle with. The whole RJT> setup in this vehicle is a bit off, there being this unused a/c RJT> compressor sitting in there, the dual belts, and I'd have to RJT> change all of that, and the PS pump to get it to a non-A/C RJT> setup. So I just left it in there. MMC> ............................. RJT> I'm not sure, but I *think* that on this one the blades tend to RJT> flatten out at higher speeds, using less power. MMC> AND riveted on. Those types were the major targets of the "flying MMC> fan blade" warnings that Charles brought up. Some or many of MMC> those had the rivet holes punched cold, causing hardening of the MMC> metal around the holes. With the flex tip added on, the rivet MMC> holes would begin to crack from the continued flexing at the rivet MMC> points. MMC> I'm sure they've solved that problem now, but you've got older MMC> equipment that falls within that time frame when all the warnings MMC> were issued. I would recommend checking for any signs of cracks, MMC> such as rust from a loose rivet or a crack, using a good light and MMC> mirror every few years. Well, the last time I had that stuff apart was when I put a new water pump in there, last summer? The old one was an interesting thing to see, as much of the impeller was just *gone*. MMC>> Then came the fan clutch, some thermal controlled, and some RPM MMC>> controlled. A good idea, BUT! It ended up with too much MMC>> spinning weight on the two puny bearings built-into the water MMC>> pump, and a LOT of premature water pump failures, which if not MMC>> recognized by the owner (seldom) often resulted in the entire MMC>> water pump shaft failure. RJT> Those setups were built into the water pump? I've never had one RJT> of those, and was of the impression that it was in the fan hub... MMC> They ARE in the fan hub, but bolted onto the very END of the MMC> water pump shaft which IS the inner race of the water pump ball MMC> bearing. In effect, they are adding a bunch of weight extended to MMC> the TIP END of the water pump bearing, which it was never MMC> designed to handle. MMC> ..................... Ok. MMC>> "nearly ideal" as they could now slow the water pump to reduce MMC>> cavitation wear on the impeller, reduce the load on the water MMC>> pump bearings, and at the same time increase the speed the fan MMC>> even more to get the needed airflow. RJT> Dunno if it was "cavitation wear" or not, but when I changed out RJT> the pump last time around there wasn't much of the impeller RJT> left! There were nontrivial portions of that sucker that were RJT> just *gone*. MMC> That could have been a combination of cavitation and corrosion. MMC> Cavitation wear usually shows up as pinhole bubbles on the back MMC> surface of the blades, and it 'grows' until there is no blade MMC> left. MMC> Wear from dirt and rust particles will show up on the front side MMC> of the blades. MMC> A combination of BOTH eats blades pretty fast! :-(( I guess. MMC>> Of course, ALL of this could have been solved by installing a MMC>> larger or thicker radiator. The last "big" car I owned had the MMC>> hugh shroud, a seven-bladed fan with stainless steel 'blades' MMC>> riveted on, and a thermal controlled fan clutch. RJT> Every time I've mentioned the idea of switching to that sort of RJT> a fan people have talked me out of it, saying that I'd end up RJT> with more trouble than it was worth. MMC> VERY TRUE! Avoid it! :-)) The consensus holds, then. :-) MMC>> I noted that the radiator had three rows of water tubes, but the MMC>> tanks had positions for five rows of tubes, two of which were MMC>> never used. RJT> I've noticed that about some of them too, what a waste! MMC>> If the radiator would have been built to use all five rows of MMC>> tubes, I probably could have gotten rid of the shroud, clutch, MMC>> and reverted to the simpler four or five-bladed fan at a slower MMC>> speed. RJT> Didn't you have an option for a different radiator in there? MMC> Probably was such an option, but I always wondered why the FULL MMC> radiator wasn't used in the first place. THAT car was no MMC> 'cheapie', and the sticker price to do that when it was assembled MMC> probably wouldn't have been $10 different. Heh. Manufacturing economies... A new, heavy-duty radiator and fan shroud is on my list of what that truck needs. So's a little body work (rot over the rear wheels), and I need that done and to work on the parking brake (frozen cable) before it'll pass inspection again, and it needs painted. Then I start worrying about the interior, and prettying it up a bit. But that comes after I'm back employed again. And of course when the weather is conducive to working on the darn thing, which we're headed _out_ of. ---* Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-838-8539 (1:270/615) SEEN-BY: 633/267 270 @PATH: 270/615 150/220 379/1 396/45 106/2000 633/267 |
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