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| subject: | TVcolor |
Joe Paulson wrote in a message to All: JP> My old 27"Zenith TV finally gave up.I smelled burnt insulation. JP> Reading the TV ads put me in a quandry.The technology is in JP> transition.So I went down to the Goodwill auction and bought a used JP> 27" RCA TV for $10. JP> JP> Usually these electronics have some defects that I often can work JP> around.Opening it up,I found very little dust.Everything looked JP> good except the color.All white images had a yellow tint no matter JP> how I adjusted the COLOR,TINT,CONTRAST,GREEN-RED mix.I tried the JP> default setup.All no help.Using the default setup,the faces of JP> people had a bluish tint.In the back,I could see some screwdriver JP> color adjustments but these had no effect. Which adjustments are you talking about there? JP> I could see controls for SCREEN and FOCUS but I didn't have the JP> required small diameter tool with a hex head. So I carefully JP> drilled a lot of 1/8",then 1/4" holes around the hole marked JP> SCREEN and cut out the plastic.Then I used a 9/64 " hex bit to JP> rock the high wattage pot and saw no change. No change at all? That's odd. I hope you put it back where it was. JP> The board on the socket of the TV tube didn't have the red,green JP> and blue pots that I was familiar with. They may not be there as accessible from the back of the set, they may be able to be gotten from the side of that little board. But this is probably what you need to adjust. JP> Now,I beginning to think that the magnet adjustments on the neck JP> of the TV tube may need tweaking. You probably *don't* want to go there! JP> There are 3 sets and I was waondering which one I should start JP> with.I would watch to make white images less yellow. Any JP> suggestions? Yeah. Leave those magnets alone! There will be two sets of them, one for color purity and one for static convergence. Have you had the back off the set yet? If not, that's your next step, and have a good close look at that board on the back of the tube. If the adjustments really aren't there then they'll be on the main board somewhere. There should be at least three of them, sometimes as many as six. The next thing you need to do before you start messing with these is to turn the color all the way down, so you get a black-and-white picture. If that does give you a black-and-white picture, and there are no tints in there, then your problems lie elsewhere. Make sure that you not only turn the color level (sometimes labeled chroma) control all the way down, but that you disengage any "auto color" or similar buttons, which typically set a minimum for this stuff that you can't go below. If you're looking at those adjustments, and the bits you move are metal, then you *WILL* need a non-metallic adjustment tool. Those metal bits are at voltage, and shorting them out to something else will create a problem for you that you don't have now. By no means start tweaking stuff here and there, some things in there you throw out of adjustment and you'll need specialized test equipment to get it adjusted properly again. Once you have a black-and-white picture, then you can adjust the drive controls for a good color in the brighter portions of the picture. There may be separate screen controls for each color, these, or the main screen control on the flyback, affect the background darker parts. They interact to some degree. If you need to adjust focus, do that _first_. And if you find that you need to touch it up for some reason, then you may need to tweak the other adjustments again. Post what you find in there and I'll go on about this a bit more. ---* Origin: TANSTAAFL BBS 717-838-8539 (1:270/615) SEEN-BY: 633/267 270 @PATH: 270/615 150/220 3613/1275 123/500 106/2000 633/267 |
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