Seems to work. Did an acid test. Cooked up some Chile Verde, jarred the left
overs, vacuumed the lids on, froze them, thawed one out today. No damage.
MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.05
Title: Ripe Fruits - Part 3
Categories: Fruits, Ffbb, Info
Yield: 1 Info
11. Then what is a fruit lover to do?
Avoid peaches with a green background, and sniff your way around
the supermarket. Aroma may be the best way to tell how ripe a piece
of fruit was when it was picked. While attached to it parent, fruit
synthesizes a bouquet of volatile compounds, as many as one or two
hundred in each ripe fruit. At the same time, bitter and astringent
compounds called phenols begin to fade away; their main purpose was
to discourage animals and microorganisms from eating the fruit before
its seed was ready. Neither process happens normally after the fruit
is harvested.
The aroma of ripe fruit seems to make the deepest impression on
us. The fragrance of a melon I ate in Japan, a peach nudged from the
tree on a farm in Sonoma, Ranier cherries jetted from Yakima to a
fancy greengrocer in Greenwich Village, tomatoes and strawberries
eaten in a field near San Diego - these memories nearly obliterate
the intervening months of numbing banality. Aromatic compounds are
synthesized as a fruit grows riper, a bouquet of esters, alcohols,
acids, and things with names like lactones and aldehydes - all of
them capable of becoming gaseous or vaporous at room temperature so
that they can reach the ten thousand odor receptors in the roof of my
nasal passages.
In contrast, most vegetables have weak, uncomplicated aromas
until you cook them. As Harold McGee puts it, "All cooked food
aspires to the condition of fruit."
12. But doesn't fruit keep on ripening after you pick it?
Up to a point. When fruit is pulled from the tree or drops of
its own accord, it remains alive - capable of respiration, complex
metabolism, and reproduction. But its life is drastically changed.
The flow of minerals and water is instantly cut off. So it the
supply of sugars from those little photosynthesis factories we call
leaves. (Fruits that stay green as they ripen can continue
photosynthesis in a minor sort of way were the sun not eclipsed as
the fruit is piled together or packed into a cardboard box.) Many
fruits feel physical pressure on their skin for the very first time.
The supply of raw ingredients for synthesizing aromatic compounds
changes. In a dizzying shift, the pull of gravity is flipped
sideways or upside down.
No matter what the growers and supermarkets would like you to
believe, most harvested fruits do not ripen nearly as well as they
would on the tree, vine, or bush, and some don't ripen at all.
13. Can you be much, much more specific?
Gladly. Fruits can be divided into two groups, according to
their style of ripening. "Climacteric" fruits ripen in a frenzied
climax of respiration and activity; peaches, apples, and bananas are
climacteric. "Nonclimateric" fruits ripen gradually and decorously;
examples are cherries and oranges. Only climacteric fruit will ripen
off of the parent plant. And of these, it is mainly fruit with
stored reserves of starch (like apples and bananas) that can grow
much sweeter after harvest, although other types of carbohydrates -
protopectins in the cell walls and unsweet sugars like glucose - are
capable of sweetening. So there are really five categories of fruit.
14. Who made up these categories?
I did. But they're quite useful. Category One is fruits that
never ripen after they are picked. These include blackberries,
cacao, cherries (sweet and sour), dates, grapes, grapefruit, lemons,
limes, litchi, mandarins, olives (which don't belong here because
they are not eaten for dessert, but I thought you should know),
oranges, pineapples, raspberries, strawberries, and watermelons.
Except for watermelons these are all nonclimacteric, calmly ripening
fruits that receive all their sugar from the parent plant, though
some may seem to get sweeter as their acidity decreases. Most
postharvest changes in these fruits do not improve their quality.
Like mush cherries, they may soften after harvest, more from decay
than from ripening. Except for dates and citrus, they have brief
storage lives.
All you can do is to buy them ripe and store them carefully.
Mature, fresh berries are plump, with none of their little segments
pale or green. Wash them (and cherries) only before serving to avoid
damaging the skin and inviting decay. Buy cherries on with the stems
attached; decay begins at the bared opening. With all citrus, buy
firm fruits that feel heavy for their size (they will be juicier with
more tasty dissolved solids in the juice) and with thin, fine-pored
skin (no point in paying for thick skin). With oranges, color is
unimportant; early-season oranges that have been degreened with
ethylene to make you feel warmer toward them have a shorter storage
life. Don't mind surface scars and scratches; but soft spots spell
decay. If the tiny flower-shaped button at one end of an orange is
green, it was picked recently or handled well or both; a brittle,
dark button indicates the opposite.
Mature watermelons are well rounded on both ends with dark, waxy
rinds, firm but not hard. In a cut piece of melon, the seeds should
be dark against intensely colored flesh without white streaks - which
makes it much safer to choose a piece of cut watermelon. White seeds
are a sign of immaturity.
Category Two contains the one fruit that stands at the opposite
extreme. It ripens only after you pick it because a chemical signal
sent out the tree inhibits ripening. It is the avocado. The best
way to store an avocado in on the tree. The second-best way is in
the refrigerator for up to ten days after you've ripened it at room
temperature - but only until the fruit yields to gentle pressure,
before the skin loosens.
15. How can you call the avocado a fruit if a fruit is an ovary
we eat for dessert, and I eat avocados in guacamole and in California
rolls at Americanized sushi bars? Do you eat California rolls for
dessert?
I don't eat California rolls under any circumstances. But
Brazilians eat avocados for desert, mashed up with sugar.
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