JG>>soil is sooo hard and clayey that not many of veggiesdid good this year,
CG>>I would think that in general sand and vegetable matterwere good bets.
 DD> Can you use the sand that builders use?  I thought that this was a type 
of silica...clue me in here.
Sand *is* silica (but, not all silica is sand   :) ...  and builder's sand is 
what most of us must settle for.   Not all sand is 'sharp', but the idea is 
to try to stay away from the really fine stuff, as it doesn't go as far, nor 
does it 'cut through' the clay as well.  Sand really doesn't keep those clay 
particles *apart*, so when the sand washes through, it is gone and your clay 
particles are free to stick to one another, once again.  If you will work 
some organic matter (preferably *already* composted), this will help to hold 
those particles apart.  Just working the soil is helpful, as, in the process, 
you *will* be working (whatever) organic matter that is present on the 
surface down into the subsoil.  But, the process will be shortened 
considerably, if you purposely add organic matter.  Good soil contains *all* 
three ingredients... organic matter (compost, [leaf mold, which is lighter 
than compost]) sand, *and* clay.  And, depending on *what* you're planting, 
you need to ammend, accordingly.
In Oklahoma, (in the areas that *I've* attempted to garden,  :)  we have a 
great need to add, not only sand, but humus.  (And, if you've spent any time 
at all here, you already *know* that the reason we have so little humus is 
that the *wind* blows it all to Kansas and Nebraska!   :)  Anyway,...   We 
can add copious amounts of humus, but, without adding sand (or Gypsum, which 
is a superior soil conditioner), we just end up with even stickier(when wet), 
tighter(when dry), "gumbo", as it is called here.  So, it is helpful and 
important, to turn it, adding whichever ingredient is needed.  Also, the last 
thing to go into a bed, here, is *mulch*!  This will help to keep it from all 
having to be done... completely all over again!
cheers,
WL Sakowski
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