DP>John Sandow wrote in a message to David Peterson:
DP> JS> The more I think about it, the more I think bedding a ruger
DP> JS> 10/22 bull  barrel is unnecessary, there is just not nearly
DP> JS> the foce one encounters  in a high power centerfire.
DP>Could be.  It may or may not be the difference between .480" or .410" at 
the
DP>competition?
DP>It does kind of add a touch of class to the project if not.
Yeah, I have no desire to target shoot with it though.  I just want 
something that will let me bust 1" targets at 25 yards without a problem, 
and do it round after round.  I finally have it!
DP> JS> Ultimately, I'd like to socket the barrel to  the stock in 3
DP> JS> places, float the action, and mount a scope directly to the
DP> JS> barrel.
DP>What does socketing the barrel to the stock mean?  (My reason for posting)
Attaching it firmly to the stock in 3 places.  Not a standard procedure
by any means, I'm thinking of this more from an engineering standpoint
right now.  This assumes I'm going to float the action.  Same with
mounting the scope to the barrel itself.
DP> JS> I ran about .5" inches, with really benchresting, I think
DP> JS> the potential  to get down to about 1/3" in there.
DP>Could you post what kind of barrel you have, and any other modifications 
o
DP>the rifle?  I'd most like to hear about the set screws in the trigger 
guard.
Midway stainless bull barrel.  Trigger job on the factory trigger assy,
down to about 2# and very smooth.  Set screws to limit overtravel and
also to limit trigger return, to limit some initial take up.
DP>Also, do you think the tip off mount that comes with the rifle is OK?  You
DP>said you wanted to mount the scope to the barrel, is that for scope 
distance 
DP>your eye, or for more secure mounting?
More secure mounting.  I think the mount is probably okay.  If you are
not sure, bed it with epoxy.  :-)
DP>I may even do this this summer! (Anyone want to buy some computer stuff? 
:-)
What do you have?
The nice thing about this conversion, for me at least, was the barrel was
the major cost.  I refinished the stock myself, cutting the barrel groove
with a 3/4" sanding drum that came out to almost perfect diameter for the
barrel.  The set screws for the trigger stops were cheap, even with a tap
and two drills it was under $10.  The scope, has taken a lot of abuse,
and shows it.  I would not get a sportview again, but whatever you get,
buy a hard case first so you will avoid any un-necessary torquing on the
scope.
þ SLMR 2.0 þ "Life is like a box of Hoyt Clydewell's reloads..."
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