Hi Carol ;)

> Hey Janis, if you want more info on how to start and what to get without
> breaking the piggy bank, this would be the place .

> You do not for instance, need a fancy stand if going with a smaller tank, say
> 10-20G.  If it's in a heated room in winter, several types allow for down to
> 65F so you will not need a heater either.

> The key thing is to setup the tank and let it run without fish (but with
> whatever you can find locally to partly cycle the tank) for 2 weeks at least.

> Expect the water to get cloudy.  Don't change it out.  Just ride it out.  It
> will get so cloudy you cant see though it eventually which is *good*.
> Suddenly one morning it is crystal clear.  Happens all on it's own and all
> those fancy (expensive) chemicals to adjust this, are worthless or damaging
> to the cycle.  (this true cloud happens only after you add fish)

> Once cycled, a tank needs about 10 mins every 2 weeks to filter out fish poop
> from the gravel and change the filters.

> Easiest tanks are called 'species tanks' meaning all the same general
> species.  That could be all danios, or all mollies, or what have you.  All
> Tetras work well!

> Fish load is the most common new tank keeper mistake.  Rule of thumb is about
> 1 gallon per inch of fish so in a 10G tank, you can reliably hold 10 small
> fish of 1 inch.  This starts to shift though with fish over 2 inches and they
> need more room.  Don't look at the fish's current size, but what it will grow
> to be.  If the tank depth isnt twice the size of the final adult fish, think
> 3 times before getting it.

> We can play a little there with 6 inch max but not over.  Aiming at most
> being 5 or 4 inch.
> xxcarol

Super :)  Thanks for the info :)

Take care,
Janis

--- BBBS/LiI v4.01 Flag