MC> Is there some kind of trick to lowering the light level get the proper
MC> depth of field, yet retain a sharp bright picture?  I have messed
MC> bothwit
MC> the Iris and shutter speed and am JUST not getting anywhere near the
MC> results I want.  I have to work within the confines of a room about
MC> 15'X15'
MC> and can't be 100 feet from the talent so that I can zoom in to get that
MC> special depth of field look.
Excuse me of jumping in Manuel, but I would like to expand on your info.
The three factors for DOF are: F Stop / Focal Length / and camera to subject
distance.  With F Stop, the wider the iris (lower the light) the narrower
the DOF (greater effect).  For focal length, the wider you have the zoom,
the narrower the DOF (greater effect).  And in terms of Camera to Subject
distance, the closer the camera to your subject, the narrower the DOF
(greater effect).  Now, if it is the narrower DOF you are after (Less in
focus), then the small room is a plus, assuming you keep your zoom wide and
more the camera instead of zooming.
The trick in lighting is to keep the ratio between your elements (key,
fill(s) consistant.  If you decrease the power of your key light by either
moving it farther from the subject or using a lower wattage, then you must
do the same for your fill elements (ambient).  Then, if you compensate
properly from your camera iris, all should appear unchanaged (except for a
bit more grain, depending on your camera).  One more tidbit.  Every time you
double the distance of the light from your subject, in theory you are
cutting the lums to 25% of the original value.
I hope this info is helpful.  If you have additional questions, don't
hesitate to drop me a line. . .
Until Next Time. . .
Robert Cohen, Ocean Townhip NJ
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