> I know! I am not really partial to any brand of car. No, I lied :>
We've all got our favorites, its just a matter of not throwing out any
particular car just becuase of a nameplate.
>more or less equal, each has their own strong/weak points. Amusingly I
>find Chrysler fanatics tend to get their back up the quickest, it's easy
>to spot them... they go on the defensive almost immediatly!
Could be. A buddy of mine inherited a Mopar (he was a Buick man)... And over
the years I have seen him become more and more fanatical towards the Mopar.
But at least he remembers his roots and gives most marques an almost fair
chance. =)
>>But still cheaper than a short lived pinging motor. If I put timing
>>back to factory specs I might get away with the regular
>>grades..Nahhhh.... I like my advance.
>
> Eeek! I don't understand.. I run 89 octane in a daily driver with no
>pinging. It is most definitly not short lived either! And my advance is
>where almost all people who have drag raced a chevy have it ;>
I currently have my car set to 18 degrees at the crank.
The most I've had it at was, the vacuum advance can pointing to the carb. =)
But boy, was that a bugger to start on a hot day after a hot-soak.
My truck, tops out for advance at 10 degrees. Anymore than that and slight
hills get it ringing.
Both vehicles have a 10 degree vacuum can, things where worse with the stock
18 and 20 degree cans. Both have HEI's.
HEI's and disk brake conversions I recommend as the best things you can do
for any old car.
> Yep, it does tend to be cheaper. I have a friend running a ford 3/4 ton
>4x4 with a 302 on propane... beggar gets cheaper driving than I do!
How does he like it?
> The core is 3/4 of the battle in 283 blocks. Don't order a 283 core
>from those two, you will get a 307 core instead or (worst case) a 305
>bored out to 3.875 inches. The difference is in the wall thickness,
>a 283 from 1959 to 1967 is the best and toughest.
Things to keep in mind when "browsing". And no, I havn't looked yet.
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