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echo: oldcars
to: ALEXANDER BILAN
from: RICHARD DOHERTY
date: 1996-09-18 19:15:00
subject: 305/350

Richard Doherty Could not resist replying when he saw Alexander Bilan say 
THIS!
> >Thank gawd, I have seen all to many get their back to the wall on the
> >topic.
>
>I know the feeling... There was a guy I worked with at one time who
>was a diehard  fanatic.  You couldn't
>even hold a non-partisan technical discussion, without the guy getting
>defensive for about his favorite brand.
 I know! I am not really partial to any brand of car. No, I lied :>
Actually I love Pontiacs but I know they are not perfection, I just
like their body styles. As for motors I am not dedicated to any one
type, rather I enjoy finding out about all of them. Any of the big 3 are
more or less equal, each has their own strong/weak points. Amusingly I
find Chrysler fanatics tend to get their back up the quickest, it's easy
to spot them... they go on the defensive almost immediatly!
> >Brrr....  Just slightly cheaper than runnng champagne!
>
>But still cheaper than a short lived pinging motor. If I put timing
>back to factory specs I might get away with the regular
>grades..Nahhhh.... I like my advance.
 Eeek! I don't understand.. I run 89 octane in a daily driver with no
pinging. It is most definitly not short lived either! And my advance is
where almost all people who have drag raced a chevy have it ;>
>But propane does offer me half-price fuel, and I calculated that in
>less than two years (factoring in worst case propane mileage) the
>entire conversion will have paid itself back.
 Yep, it does tend to be cheaper. I have a friend running a ford 3/4 ton
4x4 with a 302 on propane... beggar gets cheaper driving than I do!
> > Wreckers you can ignore safely, most will probably only have about '75
> >and up. Look for backyard junkers from the 60's and 50's. Or even better
>
>Many do, but since I have a '73, I tend to look for old stuff anyway. 
>But still, its a matter of going about this two different ways; If I
>built it myself in the garage (which necessitates a core) Or, just buy
>one through UAP replacement engines, or ACDelco replacement engines.  
 The core is 3/4 of the battle in 283 blocks. Don't order a 283 core
from those two, you will get a 307 core instead or (worst case) a 305
bored out to 3.875 inches. The difference is in the wall thickness,
a 283 from 1959 to 1967 is the best and toughest.
... "Honesty is the best policy, but insanity is the best defense...."
 * Raben Taggen *
SB>JR>A couple of years ago there was a shop advertising dent removal (small
  >JR>door dents & other minor dents) without damaging the paint. I tried to
  >JR>check it out but they wouldn't allow you near the process.
SB>If you cool the dent and the area around it with dry ice (-135 degrees
  >fahrenhiet) The metal will contract to the piont that the dent will
  >"pull" itself out. But it has to be done evenly and slowly or the metal
  >will crack. It will also most definatley crack along the crease because
  >that area has "work hardened" the point were any cooling will increase
  >the hardness and brittleness causing it to crack.
   Thanks for the input.
   Have you tried this process?
   Jim
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