Hi Steven,

[Thus spake Steven Anderson unto Poe Lim:]

 PL>  SA>  I tried a 'Improved US SDL' and it almost killed my modem, so I
 PL>  SA> dont think  I'll be doing anymore 'TESTS'....
 PL> Perhaps you modified the wrong section? I wonder how to best identify the
 PL> correct code to modify.
 SA> No, I got the right part.. There might be more to change in this one
 SA> to get it to work.. Hmmm.. :(.. Might try a few more things... :)

 SA> (Oh, Plus, the 'MOD' USR does for the Daughterboard Couriers was a
 SA> Resistor  and a Capacitor (From Memory..).. Im sure USR will tell
 SA> anyone who wants to do it at home :)

Here's how you do it :-) A post from someone in USR_modems

       USRobotics Courier modular modems - Caller ID Hardware Mod
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The USR Courier V.Everything modem can be upgraded to include Caller ID
capability with a simple flash ROM upgrade.  Unfortunately, this only
works with the newer single-board design models.   The older modems that
were upgraded to V.Everything by daughterboard swap are missing 2
components on the MOTHERBOARD that are needed to allow Caller ID to
operate.   Adding these  2 parts is a very simple and inexpensive
procedure.  Soldering is required.  If you aren't any good at it, find a
friend who is.   The 2 parts are standard Radio Shack catalog items
costing about a dollar each.   This modification will void your warranty
and violate the device's FCC certification.   Use it at your own risk.
THIS MODIFICATION IS ONLY NEEDED FOR THE MODULAR-DESIGN MODEMS THAT USE
A DAUGHTERBOARD!  Of course, you must  first order Caller ID service
from your phone company, and you must install the Flash ROM upgrade.

Parts needed:

 (1)  Resistor, 10K ohms, 1/4 watt

      Any garden-variety carbon resistor will work just fine.

 (1)  Capacitor, .033 uF, 200 volts minimum

      Old-fashioned ceramic disk parts should be OK, but a mica or
      polyester part would be preferred.   Do not use any sort of
      polarized or electrolytic part.   Capacitors must be rated
      at 200 volts or better!


Solder one lead from each part together, connecting them in series.
Keep the lead lengths short, the parts should be close together.
Polarity does  not matter.

 Solder here and
 trim leads short --->   X
                        /X\
                       /   \
                      /     \
                    ---     ---
                   |   |   |   |
                   |   |   |   |
                   | R |   | C |
                   |   |   |   |
                   |   |   |   |
                    ---     ---
                     |       |
                     |       |
                     |       |
                     |       |
                     |       |
                     |       |


There are 2 different circuit board layouts for the USR motherboard.
The location that you will install this little circuit depends on
whether you have the REV "E" motherboard or an earlier one.  The REV
"E" motherboard is easy to spot because of the "REV E"
etched into the
board at the front corner, between the end of the volume control
slider, and the front panel push-switch.   Also, the REV "E" board has
the speaker located in the rear, near the serial port connector.   On
earlier boards, the speaker is located more towards the middle of the
board.

In either case, the R-C circuit needs to be installed so that it
jumpers 2 pins on one of the motherboard chips.   This is a small 6-pin
chip that is used as a solid-state hookswitch relay.   On the REV E
boards, the chip is an LH1500 or XCA111, and is designated U11.   On
earlier boards, the chip is an LH1056, and is designated U8.

In both cases, the chip is located near the DIP switch block.   Look
at the silk-screened lettering on the board, and you will see that all
the component locations are marked.   Just look for U8 or U11 as
needed, and make sure the part number stamped on top of the chip matches
the ones listed here.

Pins 4 and 6 of this chip are the "relay contacts".   Solder the free
ends of the series R-C circuit across pins 4 and 6 of the chip. It
doesn't matter which end goes where, as long as the circuit is
"jumpering" those  2 pins.

BEFORE SOLDERING, BEND AND TRIM THE LEADS TO MAKE THEM AS SHORT AND
NEAT AS POSSIBLE.    AVOID SPILLING SOLDER ALL OVER THE PLACE, AND DON'T
OVERHEAT ANY OF THE COMPONENTS!



     Top view of chip        The chip will have a notch or a dot molded
                             into the plastic to indicate the location
                             of pin #1.
        ----\/----
       |*         |
   1 --|          |-- 6     <------\
       |          |                 \
       |  LH1500  |                  \
   2 --|  LH1056  |-- 5               ------  The R-C circuit "jumpers"
       |  XCA111  |                  /        these 2 pins. (4 and 6)
       |          |                 /
   3 --|          |-- 4     <------/
       |          |
        ----------



That's all there is to it!   Now put the modem back together, load the
Caller ID flash rom, and you're in business.   Don't forget that Caller
ID info comes in between the first and second rings, so you have to set
up your software to allow 2 rings before answering!  And be sure that
you reset all the factory settings with AT&F1&W.   The Caller ID flash
rom adds new s-registers to the modem, and these will contain "garbage"
values until you do the complete reset.

If the Caller ID detection is unreliable, you can try changing the
values of the 2 components.   Resistor values can range from 1K to 100K
and capacitor values range from .0033 to .047 uF.   Try various
combinations to see what  works best for you.

THIS MODIFICATION IS NOT NEEDED ON THE SINGLE-BOARD MODEMS!   The newer
design uses a real mechanical relay, and it already has these 2 parts
installed across the relay contacts.


                                   - Bob
Compuserve: 72662,3547
Internet  : bob{at}juge.com



... MUM'S HINT #094: If they grow up to be lawyers, don't take the blame.
--- GEcho 1.11+