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| subject: | RE: ATM Truss dob joinery |
From: "Krug, Regis"
To: 'MATTHEW SIMMONS' , atm{at}shore.net
Reply-To: "Krug, Regis"
Finger and dovetail joints (if cut accurately) will never come apart.
Unless you're experienced at cutting them by hand, you will need some type
of jig. As an alternative, you can use butt joints with biscuits, which
you can do with a router.
The lock miter bits that are now available for your router also make a
strong joint. I used it for the sides of an oak cedar chest that I built
for my daughter. The most difficult part of using these bits is getting
them set up accurately. Once set up, they are simple to use.
I am working on a 16 inch also. I plan to use dovetail joints for the
mirror box. I have the 24 inch Porter Cable dovetail jig that I will use
for this.
-----Original Message-----
From: MATTHEW SIMMONS [mailto:msimmonsmcse{at}msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 9:37 AM To: atm{at}shore.net
Subject: ATM Truss dob joinery
I am now in the planning stages for my 16" truss dob and was wondering
what type of joinery was commonly used on the mirror and rocker boxes. I
know that Astrosystems uses finger joints in their Telekits, however I am
concerned about asthetics and dimensional accuracy with that method. Has
anyone successfully used locking miter or spline miter joints? Are they
strong enough to support the load of the scope?
Matt Simmons
'Man does not cease to play because he grows old...Man grows old because he
ceases to play.'
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