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From: Paul 
Newsgroups: microsoft.public.windowsxp.general
Subject: Re: Cloning a 2.5" IDE/PATA Laptop Hard drive
Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2017 05:04:21 -0500
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james@nospam.com wrote:
> I have an old Lenovo t-43 laptop running XP. It has a 40gb hard drive,
> which is too small for my needs. With the OS, and the programs I use,
> plus some videos and music for when I am on the road, I end up with 28gb
> filled, and 12gb available. It's not uncommon for me to go to a WIFI and
> download 10gb of programs. videos and so on. Then I get a "drive full"
> message, which means it's not entirely full, but very close.
> 
> For awhile I was carrying around a 64gb flash drive, but that thing is
> always getting misplaced in the car. I decided to go to ebay and find an
> 80gb hard drive. I found a 160gb drive for $3 more than an 89gb, so I
> bought the 160gb. 
> 
> I dont have the drive yet, but when I get it, I want to clone the
> current drive to the new one, so I dont have to reinstall everything.
> But how do I do this?
> 
> Laptops dont have space for a second HDD. (at least mine dont). 
> 
> I have one of those cable kits that is for hooking any 3.5" IDE or SATA
> drive to a USB port. It dont have the plug for these 2.5" drives, so I
> assume I will have to buy one made for these 2.5" laptop drives. 
> 
> (Do they sell adaptor kits for these laptop drives?)
> (Are they labeled for these kind of drives)?
> 
> Once I buy the adaptor, I think all I have to do is run Partition Magic
> 8, (which I have) to clone the drive.
> 
> But once it's cloned, will it boot, or do I need to do something to make
> it bootable?
> 
> But then I was wondering if it's possible to clone the drive to a 64gb
> flash drive, then clone it from the flash drive to the new HDD? The only
> problem there, is that this computer can not be booted from a USB drive,
> so I will probably have to borrow a newer laptop to clone from the USB
> to the new HDD. 
> 
> Will that even work?

The combo USB2 adapters usually have 3 connectors.

    7 pin SATA data (for 2.5" or 3.5" SATA drives)

    40 pin IDE (for 3.5" IDE drives)
    44 pin IDE (for 2.5" IDE drives)

https://sgcdn.startech.com/005329/media/products/gallery_large/USB2SATAIDE.Main
.jpg

*******

You can also get adapters, to convert between 44 pin and 40 pin.

https://www.startech.com/Cables/Drive/IDE/25-to-35-IDE-Hard-Drive-Cable-Adapter
~IDE4044

The 44 pin connector has 2mm  spacing between pins.
The 40 pin connector has 0.1" spacing between pins.

The connectors are actually using the same protocol,
which is why a passive adapter can convert from one
to the other.

Some of the passive adapters, are meant for motherboard
mounting, others are meant for usage with the cable.
That's in case you cannot figure out why the gender
on the connector "isn't right". They're for different
applications. You have to think carefully about what
the gender says about the connector, and whether it
fits into your plan.

*******

Some laptops take a hard drive adapter that fits in the
optical drive bay. You could use Macrium to clone
disk-to-disk if going that route.

If you own a USB stick, you can use Macrium emergency boot CD,
to boot the laptop, and backup C: to the USB stick. Then,
shut down, and install the new hard drive. Boot the Macrium
emergency boot CD a second time, do a restore from the USB
stick, to the new hard drive. The size of the MRIMG file
in that case, is only big enough to hold the files. If
you have 20GB of files on a 100GB disk, the MRIMG file
is 20GB in size, not 100GB in size. With compression
enabled, it can actually be a bit less than 20GB.

Macrium supports resize-on-restore, so a smaller C: partition
can be used to "fill" a larger drive. That saves a step
later with a Partition Manager.

Obviously, a partition manager has lots of options like
this covered, and I've certainly done clones that way
in the past. It all depends on whether you need to use
the "backup/restore method", to get around a lack of
drive bays or not.

You can use the USB to SATA/IDE adapter, instead of the
optical drive bay method. And clone over that way. Then,
it would depend on whether your software "respects" the
USB adapter. I've had problems before, where the USB adapter
doesn't show up in a tool, so I'm robbed of the convenience
of doing it that way. Perhaps it was my older copy
of Partition Magic which had an issue. Just because
you've got that adapter, doesn't always means everything
you do is a "slam-dunk". Just so you're warned in advance.

The backup/restore method might work. The emergency boot
CD should be made on the machine which will be the
target, so that the boot-CD-making-software can load
the correct drivers for the platform. For example, if
you had USB3 ports, you'd endeavor to make sure that
USB3 drivers were included on the emergency CD. Another
example, is network drivers. File sharing won't work,
unless the emergency CD has a network driver. There's
usually a dialog which notes which drivers are going
onto the CD. And you review those, before wasting
a CD. I use CDRW or DVDRW materials, so if I screw up,
I just burn a second time. Modern (non-Memorex) re-writeable
media is pretty good now, so I hardly have trouble any
more with media. In fact, at the moment, I'm sporting
some CMC media (which would normally not be my first
choice), and it actually works. My computer store didn't
have any Ritek in the aisle any more. I had to take
a chance on some crap instead.

With the experience level you have under your belt,
this is "just work to do". There's probably more than
one way to attempt to do it. If first you don't
succeed, then Plan B or Plan C and so on. You know
the drill by now.

*******

Since your WinXP is patched up to SP3, there won't
be any worries about 48 bit LBA support. That should
just work too. Since you're doing a clone, there's no
way to lose the data in any case. Your original drive
is your backup copy. A nice safe set of operating
conditions.

*******

You could also do some of your prep work on your
desktop. But only if you have one of those
40 to 44 pin passive adapters.

When I receive a new drive, I like to pop it into
HDTune, and do a read benchmark. Just to make sure
it has a nice smooth curve, with no "flat spots".
The presence of a swath of abnormally slow read
transfer rate, would indicate some spared-out
sectors are present.

http://www.hdtune.com/files/hdtune_255.exe

The area around 72% in this HDTune example, looks
like a bad area. The whole disk doesn't look all
that healthy - I just wanted to show a "wide"
area which was bad. And the 72% area just barely
meets that criterion.

http://www.techsupportforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=68284&stc=1&
thumb=1&d=1305052454

This one looks pretty good. Only a couple of the yellow
seek dots are outliers, and not enough to worry about.
The stair-step appearance of the blue transfer curve,
is zoned recording on the platter (that's a format they use).
The "noise level" on the blue part, cannot get much lower,
because of the timing routines used to measure transfer
rate. OS activity can interfere with the test... An
OS like Windows 10, would be the worst for that
(interfering with your benchmarking work). I've had
some new disk drives, that didn't look quite this good.
This drive is a keeper.

http://www.buildegg.com/bewp/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/HDTune_Benchmark_WDC_WD
5001AALS-00L3B_A.png

    Paul
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