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echo: atm
to: ATM
from: mlbrown{at}everstrive.com
date: 2003-03-11 22:08:36
subject: Fwd: Re: ATM focuser placement calculations and tube lenght

To: atm{at}shore.net
From: "Matthew L. Brown" 
Reply-To: "Matthew L. Brown" 


Use your eye looking thru the eyepiece to judge.  Rack the focusser in and
put in a low power eyepiece.

If you can, move the main cell along the length of the tube until things
focus.  That is, move the cell a half inch or so and wedge it in place. 
Then run around and look in the eyepiece.  This is easiest done in the
daytime, looking at something a 100 yards away or more.

If the focus is getting better, you're going in the right direction.  If
not, move it the other direction.  If it isn't changing much, you may be
really far from focus (apparent focus sharpness changes quickest right
around focus).

=Matt


>scott
>
>I am assembling the tube tonight, followed at least some of your advice
>
>I installed the focuser about 10" from the front of the tube, installed the
>mirror cell at the measured distance from the focuser (as specified by
>newt),  installed the secondary and aligned it so my eye thru the focuser
>was centered in the secondary, and the primary reflection
>
>I took the scope outside and tried to look at the moon, and yes I can see
>it, but no detail what so ever, unable to achieve focus, so I concluded the
>mirror cell is in the wrong place, is this a valid assumption?
>
>data that has changed from below, the focuser is 3", tube is
8", newt say
>everything is OK, but I have installed wrong, or the stated focal length of
>the purchased mirror is not correct
>
>you recommended moving the mirror cell until the focal plane is the desired
>distance above the fully racked in focuser
>how do I do this, ie how do I know when the focal plane is the desired
>distance above the focuser, and how do I know what the desired distance is?
>
>thanks for your help
>kevin
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "scottythefiddler" 
>To: "Kevin H Williams" 
>Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 11:31 AM
>Subject: Re: ATM focuser placement calculations and tube lenght
>
>
> > Hi Keven,
> >
> > good decision ...to build your own scope.
> >
> > Regarding your question with Newt, it is a good thing that you ran your
> > numbers through the software.   Try running your specifications with a
> > smaller tube diameter, perhaps 8", which is more typical for
a 6" mirror.
> > The advice, "Diagonal too small to admit 100% ray, means that you are
> > locating your focal plane too far from the diagonal, or too look at
>another
> > way, the diagonal is too close to the primary to catch the light from the
> > edge of your primary mirror.
> >
> > If you look at the ray diagram in Newt, you will see that there is a cone
>of
> > light reflected up the tube, to the diagonal, where the diagonal folds the
> > light path out the side of the scope.   The strategy is to locate your
> > diagonal as far up that cone of light as possible, yet to 'fold' nough of
> > the top of that cone, to allow the focal plane to be located outside the
> > tube.
> >
> > Solutions:1)  smaller diameter tube, 7.5" if you can find
one, 8" approx.
>if
> > you are using sonotube.
> >                 2) lower focusser.  3" is quite high.   If
you must have a
> > rack and pinion focusser, a 2" one may serve you better.   A
low profile
> > helical focusser can shorten this distance a little bit further.   Be
>aware
> > that the lower the focusser, the more challenges you face in baffling the
> > focal plane from stray light coming in over the top of the tube.   i.e. if
> > you can look through your focusser, at an angle, and see daylight through
> > the top of the tube, you have a problem,.....which can be rectified by
> > extending the top of the tube further.
> >                3)  locate the focal plane only 1/2" from the
top of the
> > focusser.
> >
> >
> > General help in assembling the components.... install the focusser,
>perhaps
> > 8" from the top of the tube, (you may still need to add an additional
>light
> > baffle on the top of the tube opposite the focusser, depending on focusser
> > height.   Install the secondary spider, cell and mirror so that the
> > secondary is across from focusser.     After this part is done, install
>the
> > primary in its' cell, and position the cell/mirror in the tube, so as to
> > bring the focal plane the desired distance above the fully racked in
> > focusser.   Mark the position of the cell, and THEN cut the excess off the
> > bottom of the tube.   Leave extra on the tube, until you are satisfied
>with
> > the position of all the optics.   You can also leave extra on the top of
> > your tube, and trim it as you deem fit, at a later time.     Bear in mind
> > that the stated focal ratio of a mirror is only an approximation of the
> > focal length.   To know the focal length accurately, it may be necessary
>to
> > measure it, if you haven't already done this.   It is not always a good
>idea
> > to lay out  the different parts of the tube based upon measurements.   It
>is
> > far safer to install the fixed components (secondary and focusser), and
>then
> > to actually place the primary and cell to get the focal plane in the
>desired
> > location.
> >
> > Just a little tip.... before trying to put the primary in the tube, take a
> > little bit of excess tube and make a cut in it, so that you can open it up
> > to the shape of a letter 'C'.    Cut about 1/2" off one of
the ends, and
> > slip it inside the bottom of the tube.  If it fits snuggly, you can slide
>it
> > into position in the tube so that the cell will rest up against it.   As
>you
> > check the position of the focal plane, it sure helps to have something to
> > give the cell a little bit of stability.  You can adjust this ring back
>and
> > forth until you know exactly where you want the cell, then remove before
>you
> > finally fix the cell into position.
> >
> > So, ultimately, you can go back to NEWT, and try juggling numbers.  You
>most
> > definitely want the 100% rays to reach the focal plane.   Without them,
>you
> > are actually discarding light from the edge of the mirror.
> >
> > Best of luck, and give me a shout with any further questions.  Do you
> > already have the parts on hand?   If not, the first thing to consider is a
> > smaller diameter tube, then a lower focusser.   If you would like, send me
> > the specs for your scope, and I can run them through newt, and try a few
> > different combinations for you.   I usally spend a fair bit of time with
> > Newt, trying different scenarios, attempting to optimize different aspects
> > of the scope.
> >
> > Scott Donaldson
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kevin H Williams" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 9:14 AM
> > Subject: ATM focuser placement calculations and tube lenght
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I am building my first telescope
> > >
> > > 6" f/5
> > > diagonal with a minor axis of 1.6"
> > >
> > > I was hoping the list participants could review my
calculations before I
> > > make any cuts
> > >
> > > from barry's "build your own telescope" I get this
formula, all length
>are
> > > in inchs
> > >
> > > (distance from diagonal to front of mirror) = (focal length)
- (diagonal
> > to
> > > focal plane distance)
> > >
> > > diagonal to focal plane distance = (collapased focuser
height +1) + (1/2
> > > diameter of tube)
> > > with my numbers = 3 + 1 + 4.5 = 8.5
> > >
> > > focal length = (f/x * mirror diameter)
> > > with my numbers focal length = 5*6 = 30
> > >
> > > (distance from diagonal to front of mirror) = (focal length)
- (diagonal
> > to
> > > focal plane distance)
> > > with my numbers = 30 - 8.5 = 21.5
> > >
> > > so I get distance from the front of the mirror to the center of the
> > diagonal
> > > of 21.5
> > >
> > > now I need to make a decision about tube length, if I want to put the
> > mirror
> > > cell 1 inch from the back end of the tube, and the mirror cell is 2.5
> > inchs
> > > long
> > >
> > > the distance from the back of the tube to the front of mirror is 3.5
> > > I want the distance from the focuser to the front of the
tube to be 6.00
> > >
> > > so tube length is (distance from front of the mirror to the center of
>the
> > > diagonal) + (distance from the back of the tube to the front of the
> > mirror)
> > > + (distance from the center of the diagonal to the front of the tube)
> > >
> > > so I get tube length to be 21.5 + 3.5 + 6 = 29 inchs
> > >
> > > any reason to back the tube shorter or longer? would it hurt
to make it
> > > longer?
> > >
> > > when I plug this into Newt 2.5, I get a YES on
"Diagonal to small to
>admit
> > > 100% ray" - how bad is this, and what are the ways to fix this?
> > >
> > > hope this is not too confusing, I have searched the internet for
>software
> > to
> > > do these calculations, but could not find anything, it probably sounds
> > > simple to someone more experienced, but not to me, and I want to do it
> > right
> > > the first time
> > >
> > > thanks for any help
> > > kevin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >

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