From: "Russell Jocoy" 
To: richas{at}earthlink.net
Cc: atm{at}shore.net
Reply-To: "Russell Jocoy" 






>From: "Richard Schwartz" 
>To: "Russell Jocoy" 
>Subject: Re: ATM Newbie with a 6 inch blank update
>Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 13:17:55 -0800
>
>You did not tell him to make a foundation for his pitch lap, and you did
>not
>tell him to channel his grinding tool.   Why?
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Russell Jocoy" 
>To: ; 
>Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 4:50 PM
>Subject: Re: ATM Newbie with a 6 inch blank update
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >From: Byron Ader 
> > >Reply-To: Byron Ader 
> > >To: atm-digest{at}shore.net
> > >Subject: ATM Newbie with a  6 inch blank update
> > >Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 15:23:09 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >Thank you all for your assistance, your advice has paid off.  Let me
>send
> > >you this portion of my log to explain what has happened so far.
> > >
> > >031103
> > >I started by having to chamfer the edge of the tool 1/8". (It had
> > >completely
> > >worn off during the chordal stroke process.)
> > >Today I changed grit size to 120# and ground 10-12 wets MOT with a W
> > >stroke.
> > >This worked well and remedied many of the irregularities.  It did not
> > >eliminate entirely a bubble in the middle about 1-« inches in diameter.
>I
> > >checked my progress about every 3 wets during the W stroke process.
>After
> > >12 wets there was a patch on the tool surface that was about a nickel
>in
> > >diameter of 80# pits and of course the bubble.  Also at this point I
>had
> > >exceeded my target depth. So I changed to TOT and a Normal stoke with
>1/6
> > >overhang (about 1 inch) and did two wets.  This reduced the depth
>slightly
> > >and eliminated the bubble as well as the 80# pit patch.  Needless to
>say,
>I
> > >ended the night HAPPY.  I will need to start the next grinding by
> > >re-beveling the tool, cleaning the mirror and tool and probably moving
>to
> > >220# instead of 180#.
> > >
> > >Here are my questions;
> > >
> > >1. Would moving to 220# be a good choice?
> > >2. I am past my target depth and want to lengthen my focal length.  I
>will
> > >grind TOT to accomplish this using a Normal stroke..  1/6 overhang.  Is
> > >there any type of surface problems that developed as a result of
>wholesale
> > >grinding a few wets with TOT exclusively?  after I am within tolerable
> > >range
> > >of the target depth, I will alternate TOT vs. MOT.
> > >
> > ("atm{at}shore.net")
> >   Byron, as I said in my last E-mail to you ... keep the tool on top.
>This
> > will work the edge out...
> > Yes... go to 220 now...keep your tool on top and do long "W"
>strokes,..over
> > the edge only by about
> > 1 inch, rotate, grind, rotate grind, clean up and then do it again. It
> > sounds like you have dug a center
> > hole with the glass on top. You have still to this point not let anyone
>know
> > the thickness of your
> > glass. If you did inform the list of the thickness of your glass I must
>have
> > missed it.
> >           Remember once the glass is gone, you can't put it back. The
>depth
> > you have now will not
> > change too much, unless you grind down the edge. If you grind more off
>the
> > edge you will have to
> > re-bevel your edge. I am working on  5/8" Plate glass , I do not have
>this
> > option.
> >                To say more all on the list need to know the thickness of
> > your glass, this will change all
> > options that you have for your target "F" curve.
> >      Russ Jocoy
> > ("atm{at}shore.net")
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
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> >
> >
> >
>
>
("atm{at}shore.net")
   Richard, I was holding back, and waiting for the "master" to unload his
wisdom on the masses..
      I can't write a book on the list, hell I can't write a book at home.
Time is real precious when you
get older. I know you can relate Richard....    Russ.....
("atm{at}shore.net")

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