In a message of , Tim Elliott (1:105/127) writes: 
 TE>I have read much about your "Ed's Red". I was wondering if you would 
 TE>outline a maintenance procedure for gun care.
I don't know if you have read the instructions, which come with the Ed's Red 
file, but my advise is generally to "read the directions," so here they are: 
                     INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING
                     Ed's Red Bore Cleaner:
1.   Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. 
     Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is
     still warm to the touch from firing.  Saturate a cotton
     patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it
     through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be
     a snug fit.  Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it
     back into the bore.
2.   Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore
     from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area
     forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the
     patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute
     to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
3.   For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns,
     leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with
     bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits.  This
     is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine
     use.
4.   Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to
     flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red.  Let the
     patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the
     bore.  If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will
     protect it from rust for up to 30 days.   If the lanolin is
     incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm
     from rust for up to two years.  For longer term storage I
     recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute.
     "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
5.   Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing
     the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel
     finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood
     finishes).
6.   Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore
     and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably
     sized brush or jag.  First shot point of impact usually will
     not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as
     described.
7.   I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is
     used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is
     unnecessary after use of black powder, Pyrodex or chlorate
     primers.  However, if black powder rifles are not swabbed 
     between shots a hot soapy water patch or swab should be
     used first to break up any fouling "cake" in the bore.  If
     hot water cleaning is used, you should be sure to flush 
     thoroughly with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could
     result from residual moisture.  It is ALWAYS good practice to
     clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed
     ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out.
As to your specific questions:
 TE> 1. What do you do for regular cleaning after a shoot?
Sort of depends on the type of gun.  For .22 match rifles I simply run a wet 
patch through the bore and leave it wet until the next shooting session, then 
dry it out before firing.
For center-fire rifles, pistols and revolvers, I pretty much follow the above 
directions.  In rough barrels which metal foul heavily I clean first with ER 
to remove the powder fouling, then degrease with mineral spirits, then dose 
with Sweets or similar, then flush with ER.  For instructions on using Diazo 
fluid
or 28% ammonia for decoppering, observe the following cautions:
You have to be a lot more careful with it, as the straight aquesous solution 
of ammonium hydroxide will pit the bore if left in more than ten minutes, and 
you must be sure not to let it run into the action or other parts.  It is 
also much more hazardous to handle.
I use it outdoors and wear safety glasses, an apron and gloves.  I keep the 
ammonia in a wide-mouth PVC lab bottle, and use a cotton bore mop to apply 
t.
    1.      First clean carbon and powder residue from barrel with ER until
        patches come out clean.  This may take a dozen patches.
2.      Degrease barrel with mineral spirits or acetone to remove all
        oily residue from the ER.  Otherwise the ammonia won't work.
3.      Put a clean cotton bore mop on the rod, and push it out the muzzle.
4.      With the ammonia bottle set securely into wood block on floor,
        stand the rifle on the floor with the muzzle in the ammonia bottle.
5.      Slowly draw the ammonia up into bore, and pump/cycle it 5-6 times,
        taking care not to slosh any into the action.
6.      Draw the mop back into the muzzle and stand the rifle muzzle down
        in a rack, set on a rag to catch any ammonia, for ten minutes max.
7.      While the rifle is standing, cap and remove ammonia bottle, then
        heat 1/2 coffee can full of water and 1 teaspoon of Murphy's Oil
        Soap to a boil.
8.      After the rifle has set ten minutes, pump hot soapy water through
        the bore until the mop is clean and white again.  That means all
        ammonia is flushed from bore as well.
9.      Dry the bore and chamber thoroughly with patches. Using hot water
        makes this easy.
10.     Run 2 wet ER patches through the bore to protect it.  Leave it wet 
or
        short term storage, up to 30 days.  After 30 days wipe again with
        ER or oil the bore with straight Dexron III for longer storage.
For black powder guns or corrosive primers I swab first with hot soapy water, 
then follow with ER.
 TE> 2. What do you do to put a gun in storage for several months & then 
 TE>prepare it for shooting again?
For storage of up to 30 days I just leave the bore wet with ER.  For over 30 
days, up to two years, I use straight Dexron IIe or Dexron III ATF, Marvel 
Mystery Oil, or GI Lubricant, Preservative, Special, Mil-L-644A.  If you 
blend your ER with the lanolin in it this us unnecessary, and is probably 
overkill, for I have heard from several people who have left guns in storage 
for up to 2 years with ER and have experienced no rust whatever in our humid 
Northern Virginia climate.  For very long term storage over 2 years the 50-50 
Lee Liquid Alox and ATF or Break Free is still best.
 TE> 3. What should be done for a gun with light rust?
I use ER on a soft toothbrush, scrub and let soak a couple days, then scrub 
some more.  If the rust is really persistent I'll use a sharp No.3 or No.4 
pencil or a 5/16" hardwood dowell run into a pencil sharpener, then follow 
with more ER.  If THAT doesn't work, try 000 steel wool and plenty of ER, but 
more elbow grease than firm pressure unless you intend to reblue anyway.
In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed
 
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