From: "Russell Jocoy" 
To: atmpob{at}yahoo.com, atm{at}shore.net
Reply-To: "Russell Jocoy" 


>From: Dale Eason 
>Reply-To: Dale Eason 
>To: atm{at}shore.net
>Subject: ATM Nickel covered tool for 16" F5
>Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 13:58:38 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I read with interest about putting washers on a plater tool.  Then about
>using dumps (center of the washer), and finally using nickels.  The reports
>said that grinding went much faster and used less amounts of grit but to
>hog you needed a tool of the proper ROC.
>
>This is what I'm planning.  A friend has a 16" F5 waiting to be polished.
>I will use that to make a subdiameter tool 12.5" out of hydrostone.  I will
>cover it in nickels and use that for the hogging and fine grinding.  I'm
>not sure how to attach the nickels.  They seem a little thin to just pour
>the plaster around and expect them to stay put especially after digging
>channels around them.  So I may just epoxy them onto the surface.
>
>Has anyone experience with this? Does anyone want to comment?
>Dale Eason
>
>
>---------------------------------
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("atm{at}shore.net")

       Dale,
                                I have no experience with nickels, but I
have used a tool with washers. The washers were about 3/16" thick and 
1" in diameter. I poured the tool out of dental stone and epoxied the
washers
to the tool using the curve of the glass after the initial hog phase.
Don"t use the washer or "nickel" tool
to hog out your glass. This tends to wear the metal down too fast. Metal
dumps, washers, or nickels
work great but make sure they are glued with the glass curve after your
initial hog is done.
   Don"t expect that the metal will  follow something that is not there.
Even after 220 grit you will see
that some of these are not in full contact. This is not a big deal, as long
as most are making contact.
                You will also find that the grit turns much darker and
grinds faster (yea..) Although  the grit won't spend out as fast, you must
rotate the slurry. I found that using washers actually extended the
grit because it got caught in the middle of the washers and replentished
itself periodically. Others may
disagree but I found that washers were much more efficient than tiles. This
being said, with washers
you must clean your tool much more  closely than with a tile tool. (with
dumps, or nickels , maybe not).
           I still like the process of a tile tool, but  I did not have any
problems with a metal surface tool.
  Remember with metal surface tools you will never get a "chip" from the
tool unless it comes from the
epoxy, or the dental stone,  and the same is true for the tile tool , but
you don't have to worry about
a tile chip.....                     Just my  experience.....           Russ
Jocoy

("atm{at}shore.net")

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