From: "Richard Schwartz" 
To: 
Reply-To: "Richard Schwartz" 



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Hunter" 
To: "steve desfosses" ; "liste
atm" 
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2003 6:50 PM Subject: Re: ATM tool for pitch lap...


>
> As long as the tile tool is DRY, you can pour the pitch on and get back to
work.
> If the tool is damp, you will likely see the pitch separate from the tool
about the
> time that it would be the least desirable thing to happen.
>
> According to some the best thing to do is to warm the tool, then paint on
a thin
> (with turps) layer of pitch and let that air dry before pouring on the
pitch.

And according to many others, the best thing to do is to make a separate
foundation for your pitch lap as soon as you have completed grit #240.  
The
reason for this is that beginners, especially those who use solid glass
tools,  frequently do an inadequate job of fine grinding in the edge zone
and need to go back and grind some more.   If this happens, you prefer not
to destroy your pitch lap.

A separate lap foundation is made just like a tile tool, but without the
tile.   Dry it in a warm oven at about 160 degF overnight, treat it with a
LIBERAL application of Richard's secret sealer sauce, and let it dry again
for 12 hours.   Turn the oven off and let it cool with the oven before
building your pitch lap on it.

On the other hand, I am not an expert, and I don't know anything.   After
all, there is no logic behind what I advocate, whereas others have the
authority of authoritative authors whose ideas they believe in.  I am very,
very low on faith and belief; I try to limit my advice to things that I
have done and that have worked for me.

So how can you check the quality of your grinding so that you can
confidently use the Ken Hunter procedure?   See
http://www.megspace.com/science/sfe/i_fa_art.html.  There you will find
some tests that you can do during GRINDING to make sure you are ready for
polishing.

. . . Richard

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