From: "Russell Jocoy" 
To: bader{at}hydroblendinc.com, atm-digest{at}shore.net
Reply-To: "Russell Jocoy" 






>From: Byron Ader 
>Reply-To: Byron Ader 
>To: atm-digest{at}shore.net
>Subject: ATM Newbie with a  6 inch blank update
>Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 15:23:09 -0700
>
>
>Thank you all for your assistance, your advice has paid off.  Let me send
>you this portion of my log to explain what has happened so far.
>
>031103
>I started by having to chamfer the edge of the tool 1/8”. (It had
>completely
>worn off during the chordal stroke process.)
>Today I changed grit size to 120# and ground 10-12 wets MOT with a W
>stroke.
>This worked well and remedied many of the irregularities.  It did not
>eliminate entirely a bubble in the middle about 1-« inches in diameter.  I
>checked my progress about every 3 wets during the W stroke process.  After
>12 wets there was a patch on the tool surface that was about a nickel in
>diameter of 80# pits and of course the bubble.  Also at this point I had
>exceeded my target depth. So I changed to TOT and a Normal stoke with 1/6
>overhang (about 1 inch) and did two wets.  This reduced the depth slightly
>and eliminated the bubble as well as the 80# pit patch.  Needless to say, I
>ended the night HAPPY.  I will need to start the next grinding by
>re-beveling the tool, cleaning the mirror and tool and probably moving to
>220# instead of 180#.
>
>Here are my questions;
>
>1.     Would moving to 220# be a good choice?
>2.     I am past my target depth and want to lengthen my focal length.  I will
>grind TOT to accomplish this   using a Normal stroke..  1/6 overhang.  Is
>there any type of surface problems that developed as a         result of
wholesale
>grinding a few wets with TOT exclusively?  after I am within tolerable
>range
>of     the target depth, I will alternate TOT vs. MOT.
>
("atm{at}shore.net")
  Byron, as I said in my last E-mail to you ... keep the tool on top. This
will work the edge out...
Yes... go to 220 now...keep your tool on top and do long "W"
strokes,..over the edge only by about
1 inch, rotate, grind, rotate grind, clean up and then do it again. It
sounds like you have dug a center
hole with the glass on top. You have still to this point not let anyone
know the thickness of your
glass. If you did inform the list of the thickness of your glass I must
have missed it.
          Remember once the glass is gone, you can't put it back. The depth
you have now will not
change too much, unless you grind down the edge. If you grind more off the
edge you will have to
re-bevel your edge. I am working on  5/8" Plate glass , I do not have
this option.
               To say more all on the list need to know the thickness of
your glass, this will change all
options that you have for your target "F" curve.
     Russ Jocoy
("atm{at}shore.net")

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